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Kal's basement Brewery/Bar/Home Theatre build 2.0
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18DPA




Joined: 14 Nov 2011
Posts: 135
Location: Kuwait


PostLink    Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The wall shelves? They're from Ikea: http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/00011428/#/70022763

Kal

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shameless plug:

Anyone in the Ottawa Canada (or surrounding area) want to buy my Home Theatre CRT projector?
It's for sale here with a bunch of extras: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32972



My new projector has now been installed so the existing one has to go.

Kal

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nothing is ever simple...

A couple of months ago I thought I'd get ahead of things a bit and do some of the HDMI wiring before the new projector arrived:



The HDMI splitting/switching is as follows:



It's deceptively simple. We only have 2 sources:

- Bell ExpressVu HD-PVR: For watching TV (both recorded and live)
- PS3: For Blu-ray/DVD/games

The biggest issue is that we want to be able to share recorded TV content between our family room TV and the Home Theatre projector. Bell (who uses Dish Network equipment) is just coming out with "whole house PVR" solutions now but I didn't want to replace perfectly good equipment. Instead, we simply split the output so that both the projector and TV always get the same signal. This works for us because we never sit in separate rooms watching different TV shows (I rarely watch TV to begin with). A Monoprice 8204 HDMI splitter is used to do this.

The family room TV is a good 40 or so feet away and above. I did not want to put HDMI cables in the ceiling and through the floor for many reasons: HDMI cables are fragile and do not bend well. They do not enjoy being pulled through joists and other tight spaces. The connectors on HDMI cables are especially fragile. They are also large meaning a fairly large hole has to be drilled through the floor to get up into the family room. So Monoprice 8121 HDMI/CAT6 converters were used instead. Allows you to send HDMI over two CAT5e/CAT6 network cables up to 98ft (give or take).

While sharp bends on high speed network cable should also be avoided, it's much easier to work with and I can crimp on the connectors after the fact. Given the fact that the run is fairly short, at only $18 for the Monoprice 8121 HDMI/CAT6 converters I was willing to take a chance over using a more robust solution like the Lumagen HDMI/CAT6 extender (even with my dealer cost it's still not $18). Wink

Both source signals then go to a Monoprice 8462 HDMI switcher. This switcher is "intelligent" in that it always switches to the last source that outputs a signal. This means that I don't need to do any switching at all to switch between PS3 and HD-PVR during normal use. The HD-PVR always on and always outputs a signal so it's always the active signal sent to the projector. If we want to watch a movie or play a game, we turn on the PS3 and the switcher automatically switches over. Once done, the PS3 is turned off and the switcher switches back to the HD-PVR automatically. I like that. Makes it bulletproof for anyone to use.

IR override with the remote is also available if we want to switch to TV while the PS3 is still on, but the automatic switching covers 99% of what we want to do.


So to get back to my original statement: Nothing is ever simple...

The projector was installed a week or so ago, and what I wrote above just didn't work. The HDMI switcher kept freezing (wouldn't switch inputs automatically or with the remote). Once it locked on a signal, it could never be switched to another. I had to manually unplug the power and plug it back in to wake it up after disconnecting HDMI cables. It only seemed to have a problem when the projector HDMI cable was connected so I was starting to suspect a handshaking issue between the projector and switcher (makes sense right?).

Turns out that the problem was elsewhere and I forgot to follow my own advice that I often give to people that have HDMI issues: While long cables can cause issues, make sure none of the cables are too short as well.

Really short HDMI cable (less than 6') can sometimes cause handshaking/reflection issues. If you're having problems with a setup that uses really short cables, try a 9-12' one just to confirm. The cable I'm using between the HDMI splitter and HDMI switcher is only 1' long. So I tried a longer (12') cable and the problem went away. Sheesh.

I bought a few of these these high quality 1' Monoprice HDMI cables and they all caused the same issue. They worked fine in other setups however. The cables are "fine". It all depends on the HDMI hardware on either end. It's somewhat of a crapshoot. In this case I got sidetracked a bit since the problem would go away when I unplugged the projector HDMI cable.

The suggestion of not using really short HDMI cables is also echoed by some manufacturers of HDMI equipment (Lumagen for example).

P.S. I hate HDMI for reasons like this.

Kal

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-MG-




Joined: 05 Dec 2011
Posts: 203



PostLink    Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That HDMI splitter is an interesting concept. I don't know a lot about AV like you, but it is intriguing that you don't lose quality with something like that. Then again, I have no idea how much 'bandwidth' an HDMI cable has for video/audio signals.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 4:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

-MG- wrote:
That HDMI splitter is an interesting concept. I don't know a lot about AV like you, but it is intriguing that you don't lose quality with something like that. Then again, I have no idea how much 'bandwidth' an HDMI cable has for video/audio signals.

An HDMI signal is all digital. Digital doesn't lose information as you copy it, so nothing is lost. It could be split a million times and it would be identical to the original.

Similar example: Someone can forward you an email with a photo that's already been through thousands of inboxes. The photo never changes or deteriorates.

Kal

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woodenboatguy




Joined: 19 Sep 2012
Posts: 96
Location: Mississauga, ON


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 4:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sigh. Why oh why do I keep reading this thread?

The brewery looks amazing.

Between you, and a fellow I correspond with in New Zealand (see his brewhouse build here: http://www.youtube.com/user/Time4Another1) I am in great pain. Across my basement (and garage) are the beginnings ... and I. Can't. Get. Started. !

Well done. Very well done Kal.

Cheers,
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-MG-




Joined: 05 Dec 2011
Posts: 203



PostLink    Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal -

Is there anything left for your brewery or is it all complete? You should put a section on your website documenting your new brewery if you can so others can easily get to it.

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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

-MG- wrote:
Kal -

Is there anything left for your brewery or is it all complete? You should put a section on your website documenting your new brewery if you can so others can easily get to it.

Still a few things to go. I got a commercial fridge for lagering/conditioning but am having some issues with it that they're trying to fix. Once that's all figured out I have a few more shelves to get.

I'm also playing with the positioning of some things through using the brewing, seeing how things work. I want to get some experience/lessons learnt under my belt before I document more.

Kal

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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The steps and nosing around our riser are very slippery and I'd like to treat them with something. I don't need something that provides super friction like anti-slip tape (looks like sandpaper). We're not playing basketball on this thing. I just want something that raises the coefficient of friction a bit. For example, the pre-finished hardwood on our main floor is brand new and not overly slippery. I'd be happy with something similar to that level of friction.

There seems to be a quite a variety of anti-slip sprays and roll-on coatings meant for for wood stairs. Anyone use any of these products. Thoughts/Recommendations? Thanks!





Kal

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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0


Last edited by kal on Thu Jan 24, 2013 9:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
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huaco




Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 1506
Location: Burleson Texas


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could you mask off linear strips, say, 2 strips following the contour and mix some tiny glass beads in a brush-on clear coat type application? Should end up being very clear and will add quite a bit of traction to socked feet...

edit: or just sprinkle the glass beads on top of the wet clear coat...
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd prefer something that isn't overly visible. There's even clear tape you can use but I'm wondering if anyone's used any of the various anti-slip sprays or roll-on products you can get for floors/stairs/etc.

Have you tried doing what you recommend? Any products in specific you've used?

Kal

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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0


Last edited by kal on Thu Jan 24, 2013 9:39 pm; edited 1 time in total
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huaco




Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 1506
Location: Burleson Texas


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've painted a wooden shop floor with a product meant for that application, not clear, low visibility... It worked GREAT! The very slight abrasive in the paint really made a difference, as the OSB shop floor was quite slick before it's application.
I just don't see that what I described would be all that visible... especially if you went conservative on the glass media application. I've never it done in an indoor setting where decor was in consideration, but if you lay down just a thin layer of poly, sprinkle the media, let dry and brush off excess media, then top coat a very thin "finish" layer, I don't see how that would stand out too bad. It would be something easy enough to "test" on a piece of scrap 1x6 lumber.

(sorry for the run-on sentence... wow)
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I see what you're getting at now.

Something like this maybe: http://www.ndclean.com/no-slip-skid-safe-system-for-vinyl-wood-metals-and-previously-sealed-surfaces

Sounds like a lot of work: 1 coat, aggregate sets into that coat, then they want to you only spray the final 2-6 coats to avoid disturbing the aggregate. Yikes. Not something I want to get into inside a finished basement. Probably complete overkill too.

Kal

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huaco




Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 1506
Location: Burleson Texas


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There ya go... looks like that would work, but like you said. LOTS of work.

Tinker around with the Poly-media thing... You may be surprised. It would be fairly cheap too. You are only talking about a few stripes of tread surface maybe an inch wide.
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rockinmarty




Joined: 01 Jan 2012
Posts: 15
Location: st-hubert, Qc


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you got me curious with your query and found this http://www.noskid.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=56_65 maybe that could work
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silverspoons




Joined: 21 Dec 2010
Posts: 555
Location: Webster NY


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If i could chime in.. i was a manufacturer's rep for a major flooring manufacturer for 22 yrs.. most non skid " applications" will put some sort of clear coat over some sort of ground hard particles.. in most cases ground quartz. they work well but be careful, any scratch, and they will scratch, will look like a white scratch against the dark wood , in Kal's case, background..

walking over with bare feet of socks will be fine but traffic from shoes will surely scratch and over time very fine scratches will accumulate and the area will start to look milky.. the only solution at that point is to sand and refinish.

Silverspoons
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rockinmarty




Joined: 01 Jan 2012
Posts: 15
Location: st-hubert, Qc


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 3:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So Kal anything new? You know we want more, you got us addicted Wink
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, it's been a while - that is true. I've been meaning to post some final pictures of the brewery but ran into some trouble with the new lagering/conditioning fridge I had purchased. Still waiting on some shelving that was backordered too. Everything's been solved now hopefully within a couple of weeks I'll be able to post some pics. The bar taps are all set up as well and the new nitro lines are working well too so I need to document that too.

Kal

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rockinmarty




Joined: 01 Jan 2012
Posts: 15
Location: st-hubert, Qc


PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 2:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

how about pics of your glycol system?
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