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supercub405
Joined: 03 Jun 2011 Posts: 32 Location: iowa
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Link Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 11:54 pm Post subject: Russian imperial stout recipe |
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Hey guys so a buddy and me are planning on brewing a huge imperial stout in the begining of february we have a 15 gal bourbon barrel we are age in. we are gonna brew 2 10 gal batches and a problem we are running into is that i have keggles which leaves me with issues in my mash tun i have thought many things through my head and i need some advice so i hope to hear from people. we have a lot of dry malt extract mainly to make up for grain we have pulled out due to mashing issues
and the honey in the primarary will acually b treacle and itll be added at the peak of fermentation ive also been curious about how much abv will the honey/treacle add to the beer since ibrewmaster doesnt consider it a fermentable and will nearly be 100% fermented
itll be fermented in a sealed 20gal fermenter and then transfered over to barrel after probably a month ummm starter is gonna be about 2 gallons
here's the recipe still been tweaking things
Style: Imperial Stout OG: 1.147
Type: All Grain FG: 1.037
Rating: 0.0 ABV: 14.41 %
Calories: 478 IBU's: 67.18
Efficiency: 80 % Boil Size: 12.44 Gal
Color: 70.0 SRM Batch Size: 10.00 Gal
Preboil OG: 1.124 Boil Time: 90 minutes
Fermentation Steps
Name Days / Temp
(none)
Grains & Adjuncts
Amount Percentage Name Time Gravity
10.00 lbs 19.66 % Dark Dry Extract 60 mins 1.044
26.35 lbs 51.81 % Pale Malt (2 Row) US 60 mins 1.036
1.67 lbs 3.28 % Oats, Flaked 60 mins 1.037
5.34 lbs 10.50 % Roasted Barley 60 mins 1.025
1.67 lbs 3.28 % Victory Malt 60 mins 1.034
1.67 lbs 3.28 % Wheat, Flaked 60 mins 1.035
0.83 lbs 1.64 % Barley, Flaked 60 mins 1.032
0.83 lbs 1.64 % Black (Patent) Malt 60 mins 1.025
0.83 lbs 1.64 % Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L 60 mins 1.034
0.83 lbs 1.64 % Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L 60 mins 1.033
0.83 lbs 1.64 % Chocolate Malt 60 mins 1.028
Hops
Amount IBU's Name Time AA %
2.00 ozs 24.60 Chinook 90 mins 13.00
3.00 ozs 42.58 Warrior 90 mins 15.00
Yeasts
Amount Name Laboratory / ID
1.0 pkg Dry English Ale White Labs 0007
Additions
Amount Name Time Stage
1.67 oz Whirlfloc Tablet 15 mins Boil
3.50 lb Honey 15 mins Primary
Mash Profile
Light Body Infusion In 75 min @ 150.0°F
Add 51.07 qt ( 1.25 qt/lb ) water @ 162.0°F
1. one thing that has crossed my mind is that i have a spare keggle and false bottom so what i was thinking was splitting the mash and putting one mash ton above the other still recirculate just recirculate through 2 mash tons, gravity into the main and pump through herms back into top mash and all over again
2. i have also played with my grist to water ratio but i havent gotten to below 1.1 qt/lb just cause i dont have a good idea of what that will do to our fermentables we will take all we can get the more the better
i also have my efficiency lower cause i wont know actual effeciency till i brew on it in a couple weeks just gonna do a super basic pale malt beer recipe which is gonna get soured and blended for a gueeze in a couple years so i figured it would be a super basic recipe to practice on and dial things in
sorry for the chaotic post hope some people chime in i appreciate it much!!
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huaco
Joined: 05 Apr 2012 Posts: 1506 Location: Burleson Texas
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Link Posted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 12:11 am Post subject: |
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I plan on leaving my RIS on the yeast another week or so. It will be 7-8 weeks total. The yeast really do clean up work during this time and it won't hurt it to stay on the yeast that long. Take that into consideration on your schedule. After I rack off the yeast, I plan to continue to age it in a corny for another 3-4 weeks with some head pressure on it to seal it all up. Then I will chill it down to the mid thirties and start carbing it.
I just built a counter pressure bottle filler so I will be bottling my competition brew in 12 oz bottles and probably bottle the rest in bombers.
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supercub405
Joined: 03 Jun 2011 Posts: 32 Location: iowa
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Link Posted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 12:58 am Post subject: |
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kk thanx for the input i def know what your saying and we will def leave it in primary till gravity is were we want it def make some adjustments in the recipe tho thank u
you will have to let me know how u like that filler i have found a a couple different diy plans but ive also just been tempted to get the beer gun
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huaco
Joined: 05 Apr 2012 Posts: 1506 Location: Burleson Texas
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Link Posted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 8:23 pm Post subject: |
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supercub405 wrote: | kk thanx for the input i def know what your saying and we will def leave it in primary till gravity is were we want it def make some adjustments in the recipe tho thank u
you will have to let me know how u like that filler i have found a a couple different diy plans but ive also just been tempted to get the beer gun |
Honestly, you would be best-off buying the cheaper versions out there. They are the same price as what I spent in materials.
I like to DIY. That is why I did it. Looking at something and knowing I designed it or built it, Man... I get a lot of gratification out of that!
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sincere01
Joined: 16 Jun 2012 Posts: 162 Location: Gresham OR
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Link Posted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 9:06 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: | but ive also just been tempted to get the beer gun |
For what it's worth, imo the beer gun sucks. Blichmann makes a lot of good stuff, I don't think this is one of them. Counter pressure fillers are a bit more work and cumbersome, but the outcome is a lot better.
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huaco
Joined: 05 Apr 2012 Posts: 1506 Location: Burleson Texas
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Link Posted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 9:15 pm Post subject: |
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Here is the one I made.
I picked up the 1/4od and 3/8od SS tube from a buddy that works down the road at a pressure vessel plant. He just picked it from the scrap bin.
It is adjustable to fill any size bottle, Heck, I could probably even fill a growler with it if I had the right size stopper.
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Holter
Joined: 07 Oct 2011 Posts: 221 Location: Los Angeles, Ca
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 7:00 am Post subject: Re: Russian imperial stout recipe |
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supercub405 wrote: |
1. one thing that has crossed my mind is that i have a spare keggle and false bottom so what i was thinking was splitting the mash and putting one mash ton above the other still recirculate just recirculate through 2 mash tons, gravity into the main and pump through herms back into top mash and all over again |
Ive never thought about that, but i suppose you could do that. I would be very wary of the amount of restriction you have on flow coming out of the second mash tun - you dont want to have so little going through that you fry your pump. That and being sure that the temp of your HLT was correct for both mash tuns - that could be difficult.
If it were me i would do back to back batches or even back to back mashes in the same mash tun and use the second keggle for sparge water. That or you could try back to back mashes where you just used the first runnings for each to hit your starting gravity. Ive not done this but i know its common practice - you would need to look into how to calculate wort volumes for first runnings.
Quote: | 2. i have also played with my grist to water ratio but i havent gotten to below 1.1 qt/lb just cause i dont have a good idea of what that will do to our fermentables we will take all we can get the more the better
i also have my efficiency lower cause i wont know actual effeciency till i brew on it in a couple weeks just gonna do a super basic pale malt beer recipe which is gonna get soured and blended for a gueeze in a couple years so i figured it would be a super basic recipe to practice on and dial things in
sorry for the chaotic post hope some people chime in i appreciate it much!! |
Just a bit of advice, i see that your expected efficiency is 80%. I have only brewed a beer that had a starting gravity higher than 1.100 twice and both times my efficiency plummeted down to 65% using the same brewing practices that i always have that typically produces my target mash efficiency of 80%. I ended up using DME to boost my gravity up to my target after measuring its gravity preboil and the beers turned out just fine.
Good luck with the brew! The recipe malt bill looks complex, but i dont think thats a bad thing with a big RIS. Here is a picture of my latest RIS - a head dark as night!
_________________ Holter
LABeerFan.com
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supercub405
Joined: 03 Jun 2011 Posts: 32 Location: iowa
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Link Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 4:38 pm Post subject: Re: Russian imperial stout recipe |
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Holter wrote: | supercub405 wrote: |
1. one thing that has crossed my mind is that i have a spare keggle and false bottom so what i was thinking was splitting the mash and putting one mash ton above the other still recirculate just recirculate through 2 mash tons, gravity into the main and pump through herms back into top mash and all over again |
Ive never thought about that, but i suppose you could do that. I would be very wary of the amount of restriction you have on flow coming out of the second mash tun - you dont want to have so little going through that you fry your pump. That and being sure that the temp of your HLT was correct for both mash tuns - that could be difficult.
If it were me i would do back to back batches or even back to back mashes in the same mash tun and use the second keggle for sparge water. That or you could try back to back mashes where you just used the first runnings for each to hit your starting gravity. Ive not done this but i know its common practice - you would need to look into how to calculate wort volumes for first runnings.
Quote: | 2. i have also played with my grist to water ratio but i havent gotten to below 1.1 qt/lb just cause i dont have a good idea of what that will do to our fermentables we will take all we can get the more the better
i also have my efficiency lower cause i wont know actual effeciency till i brew on it in a couple weeks just gonna do a super basic pale malt beer recipe which is gonna get soured and blended for a gueeze in a couple years so i figured it would be a super basic recipe to practice on and dial things in
sorry for the chaotic post hope some people chime in i appreciate it much!! |
Just a bit of advice, i see that your expected efficiency is 80%. I have only brewed a beer that had a starting gravity higher than 1.100 twice and both times my efficiency plummeted down to 65% using the same brewing practices that i always have that typically produces my target mash efficiency of 80%. I ended up using DME to boost my gravity up to my target after measuring its gravity preboil and the beers turned out just fine.
Good luck with the brew! The recipe malt bill looks complex, but i dont think thats a bad thing with a big RIS. Here is a picture of my latest RIS - a head dark as night!
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hey holter thanx so much for some input i really appreciate it i usually recirculate at pretty close to 100% so i dont think my pumps will have a problem. i talked to a local comercial brewer that drinks with us and he didnt think that i should have a problem with the double mash tuns my temp reading will taken off my bottom mash tun before the pump so i am hoping that the pid will probably bump up a degree or two but i dont think i will have that much heat loss but i'll have to play it by year. it was the easiest fix the problem and trying to keep grain bill up and not substitute for extract.
im glad u mentioned the efficiency i will probably lower to around 70% and try prevent that worse comes to worse my gravity goes up which i see no harm in that plus with honey in the primary i expect some extra abv from that.
all and all thank you very much this was very helpfull and i will be sure to post pics and updates as they come!
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supercub405
Joined: 03 Jun 2011 Posts: 32 Location: iowa
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Link Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 4:38 pm Post subject: |
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oh and your RIS looks delicious love a good picture of homebrew poor
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Holter
Joined: 07 Oct 2011 Posts: 221 Location: Los Angeles, Ca
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Link Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 6:18 pm Post subject: |
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No problem, please let us know how the mash and efficiency go, i am really curious about this project. I know Kal saw a decrease in efficiency when he tested his system out with an american barley wine - http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25256
"How much would the system efficency drop when brewing such a high gravity beer? With really high gravity beers efficiency drops because you're using less sparge water than usual to rinse more grain than usual and end up leaving more sugars behind. This is true of any brewing setup. My 9% ABV IIPA still achieved close to my regular 95% efficency which was nice to see. With this Barleywine the effiency dropped to 86% which is still very high. The end result was a 12% ABV beer instead of the original target of 12.5% since I had assumed my typical 95% efficiency when formulating the recipe. I like the resultant beer so the recipe below is exactly what I brewed. I now know however how efficiency is affected when making a very strong beer so I can compensate in the future (if needed)."
good luck with the brew!
_________________ Holter
LABeerFan.com
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