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Kal's basement Brewery/Bar/Home Theatre build 2.0
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Scott



Joined: 01 Oct 2012
Posts: 3
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada


PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Kal,

Who's the specific contractor who constructed your basement shower? I love the look of the barrier free shower with the linear drain along with the tiling job he did. I need a few estimates and am definitely interested in having him come in.

Thanks!

Scott
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9935
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott,

JustBasements Ottawa (http://www.justbasementsottawa.ca/) designed and built the bathroom shower and everything else for that matter. There was no "specific" contractor for the bathroom shower. JustBasements did the design, concrete work for the floor, the sub-floor, the Schulter kerdi waterproofing, the linear drain, the tile, the real stone, etc. The only thing they sub'ed out was connecting the drain and shower plumbing. A licensed plumber was used for that. The drainage was all inspected by the city as well before concrete was poured.

It was entirely their design idea to have a barrier free "walk in" shower with a floor to ceiling niche and accent stone that went right into the shower. The combination of good tradespeople behind solid design experience is why we went with this company. If interested, ask for Norm (the owner) and tell him that Kal sent you.

Kal

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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0


Last edited by kal on Tue Apr 30, 2013 1:06 pm; edited 1 time in total
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kwhyte



Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 1



PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 3:01 am    Post subject: Tower advice Reply with quote

I'm looking to build a rather more modest set-up, but I think I have similar concerns as far as stainless/bevseal tubing. Does anyone have a recommendation for a two tap tower that fits those requirements? Getting the tubing on to regular 3/16 barbs is hard enough, I don't want to take on doing it in a confined space where it may not fit, if I can avoid it. I'm guessing no one sells a tower with bevseal tubing and stainless faucets as in, but maybe something with stainless running to the bottom of the tower so that attaching/changing lines is easier?
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Scott



Joined: 01 Oct 2012
Posts: 3
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal,

Thanks for the info. I spoke to Norm awhile ago in regards to the washroom. The impression I got was that he would rather do an entire basement project rather than just a washroom, to which, I don't really blame him. I'll try to touch base with him again in the future.

Thanks again
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9935
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 2:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Tower advice Reply with quote

kwhyte wrote:
I'm looking to build a rather more modest set-up, but I think I have similar concerns as far as stainless/bevseal tubing. Does anyone have a recommendation for a two tap tower that fits those requirements?

Yes, these ones here have all stainless tubing in the tower:

http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/towers-pid-1689.html?affId=70238

It has all stainless lines and is air cooled. If you want glycol chilled try this one:

http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/towers-pid-D4743DTKR.html?affId=70238

There may be others that work as well, see all 2-faucet towers here:

http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/towers-cid-38.html?affId=70238

Make sure they say something like "All stainless steel contact" or "Connection (Product): 1/4" O.D. Stainless Steel tubes with tapered barb 1/4"-3/8"" or similar. They come with barbed fittings on the bottom coming out of the tower which you then attach barrier tubing to.

Note that the tubing I use is not the bevseal name brand but similar poly tubing with PET lining. There are many companies that make barrier poly tubing. Micromatic makes their own I believe so the 8-product/2-glycol trunk line I use uses "Brewmaster II" lines for the product lines. You can read about it here:

https://www.micromatic.com/glycol-cooled-components/trunklines?affId=70238

It's really nice stuff. I hooked up the tower last light to the trunk line and will be posting pictures soon.

Kal

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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0


Last edited by kal on Sun Mar 03, 2019 3:54 am; edited 1 time in total
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KES



Joined: 13 May 2011
Posts: 473
Location: Iowa


PostLink    Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good! Can't wait for these pics. Hooking up the trunk line to the tower and the chilling system is what I need info on.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9935
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been spending a lot of time lately on getting the bar taps all set up properly. There's still a ways to go but I figured an update was in order.

First thing that was needed was a chalkboard so that we can write down what's on tap:



Everyone that sees it thinks it's a flat panel TV. Once I add some writing it should be more obvious what it is. Wink

This is actually a mirror bought from a local discount home improvement store. Finding one the right size/ratio and that suited our style took some time but the result was considerably less expensive than having something custom made ($50 vs $400).

The glass was sanded lightly and then Rust-Oleum chalkboard spray paint was applied after carefully covering the frame and edges with tape.

Rust-Oleum chalkboard paint is also available that can be applied with a roller or brush. I've used it before for other projects and a roller is definitely preferred to avoid brush marks but you need to then be able to roll past the working area. Since the glass mirror could not be easily removed from the frame (it's glued in) I opted to go with spray paint here instead to make sure that the finish was nice and smooth.

I hooked up the Draft Beer Trunk Line (1/4" 8 Product Lines w/ 2 Glycol Lines) to the 8-tap tower and added the six Perlick faucets and two stout faucets using a faucet wrench. This special wrench is absolutely required. You'll completely wreck the nice finish on the shank nuts if you try to use a regular wrench. The good news is that a faucet wrench is only about $5.

It's amazing how many tools it takes to do what's actually a pretty straight forward job (mostly because I had to go through 2 layers of drywall and the bar cabinet back wall - all very cramped):





The hose ends were heated slightly with a heat gun to make them easier to slide on to the barbed ends of the tower supply lines. Small all stainless worm clamps are used to hold them in place.

Once all tests are done the exposed hoses will be wrapped in plastic wrap (moisture barrier), then wrapped in metal foil for (cold transfer from glycol lines to product lines), and then insulated. Same as the original trunk line.

I don't believe I ever included a photo of the plumbing to supply and drain the drip tray so here's an explanation of the parts shown:

1 - Pressure gauge for glass rinser. (Around 15-20 PSI is all you need).

2 - Pressure reducing valve (PRV) used to take the ~60 PSI house water pressure down to ~15 PSI for the glass rinser. (The PRV is mostly hidden by the beer trunk line in the picture above).

3 - One way check valve to stop any backflow. (Prevents the rinser from leaking/squirting if house water pressure drops and comes back).

4 - Shut off valve for glass rinser.

5 - Shut-off valve for brewery floor drain washout. (You need to run water through basement floor drains once or twice a year to avoid standing water. This valve makes it easy. I simply open it for 10 seconds a couple of times/year since technically the brewery floor drain will never be used - it's there "just in case". Most houses will only have 1 floor drain that is automatically washed/cleaned from the air conditioner, dehumidifyer, and/or HRV/ERV system so no need for manual intervention.)

6 - Drain from drip tray. (A regular dishwasher drain hose that connects to above the P-trap under the bar sink).

7 - Cold water supply line to the drip tray sprayer. (Always use cold water for a glass rinser).


One the brewery side the large trunk line will connect to the keg freezer (keezer) on the right:



The freezer on the left is actually run as a freezer and is used to store hops and dry yeast, and to chill the glycol lines in the trunk line. I've been doing various cooling scenario tests at the moment to see what works best and will be documenting more shortly.


Extra shelves were installed in the brewery, (still more to come for the right wall):



I've brewed twice now in the new room and it's a welcome change from running around in the garage. Everything is at your fingertips.


On the Home Theatre front, our existing Zenith 1200 CRT projector has been temporarily put back into service by floor mounting to tide us over until a new projector is ordered. (We're waiting for a new line of JVC models that won't be out until likely end of December, and I do not want to be first in line either). Having the old projector running will also make it easier to sell as prospective buyers will want to see it in action.



Bonus points to anyone who recognizes the miniseries currently up on screen.

I discovered a new genre of movie posters that I like called "retro minimalist" (Google "retro minimalist movie posters"). These ones feature the movie that probably had the biggest impact on me and made me want to get into this hobby:



As far as I'm concerned, Han shot first and Jar Jar doesn't exist.

Kal

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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0


Last edited by kal on Sun Mar 03, 2019 3:53 am; edited 6 times in total
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perogi



Joined: 12 Feb 2012
Posts: 830
Location: NH

Drinking: Perogi Pale, NEIPA, Nutter's Crossing Nut Brown Ale, Edmund Fitzgerald Porter Clone

Working on: Max's Maibock


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
As far as I'm concerned, Han shot first and Jar Jar doesn't exist.
Kal


^ QFT!
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huaco



Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 1508
Location: Burleson Texas


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
As far as I'm concerned, Han shot first and Jar Jar doesn't exist.
Kal


Dang-Skippy! You got that right!


Seriously though Kal, NICE work man!
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Magic City



Joined: 23 Sep 2011
Posts: 15



PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that a bit of Boardwalk Empire I spy up there on the screen?
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9935
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Magic City wrote:
Is that a bit of Boardwalk Empire I spy up there on the screen?

Bingo! Extra bonus points if you can tell me which season/episode.*

Kal

*This is a trick question as the footage is from the opening which is the same for all episodes Wink

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9935
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm a big fan of using the right tool for the right job and using good tools. I find they make all the difference when to comes to doing good work. Good tools also make the job easier and will (hopefully) last longer.

With that in mind I noticed that I had pictures of some of my tools in the previous pictures. For Xmas 2011 my big gift was the following tools that I've been using all year now:



From top to bottom:

Milwaukee 2697-22 M18 18-Volt 1/2-Inch 2-Tool Combo Kit (Compact hammer drill & impact driver)

Milwaukee 2735-20 M18 LED Worklight

Ridgid R82007 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Pocket Drill Driver

(Using these links helps support this site at no additional cost to you - Thank you!)

In the past I've never been a big fan of cordless tools but that's probably because I've always used cheap ones that just don't have any power and have batteries that never last. These Milwaukee M18 tools are different. They do not lose power as the batteries deplete and it takes forever to drain the batteries in the first place. I've been using them extensively over the last 12 months and it again drives home the point that the right tool can really simplify a job and save you time.

Still using a screwdriver? Try an impact driver instead. It'll save your wrists, is about 50x faster, more torque, and less chance of stripping heads when used correctly.

The compact hammer drill switches easily between hammer and non-hammer and has 2 speed settings. The slower one is actually perfect for milling grain.I've been this drill now for ~1 years instead of my previously recommended corded drill as I only have to pull the trigger in all the way and never worry about milling too fast.

The compact hammer drill in action making holes for the beer trunk line:



The LED worklight is actually the one I use the most. It presents phenomenally bright and well focused light, has good weight to it (balances perfectly on the battery), an adjustable head, and the battery seems to last forever. There were times when I'd be working on all day with it on. You can go all day without charging it. Like their other tools it doesn't feel cheap or fragile. I don't like having to be careful with tools and the LED worklight is no exception: It's all scratched up but works perfectly.

Sometimes you need something smaller to get into tight spots (like between joists) and that's where the Ridgid R82007 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Pocket Drill Driver comes in. Perfect for tight spaces. Came in very handy when I installed a central-vac conduit through joists *above* a whole bunch of HVAC tin:



The white conduit can be seen running left to right in the picture above. It's used as an HDMI cable conduit that goes between the A/V room behind the screen and the projector mount in the back of the home theater. I had to punch through about 15 joists and get my drill & hole saw up there amongst HVAC ducts to do it. There's no way this would have been possible with a regular sized drill.

Note: There seems to be many people who had battery issues with this compact Ridgid model so if you do buy one make sure to get one from a store with a good return/exchange policy, though I believe that Ridgid will do the swap for you too. (Mine seem fine).

Kal

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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0


Last edited by kal on Wed Dec 19, 2012 4:32 pm; edited 1 time in total
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silverspoons



Joined: 21 Dec 2010
Posts: 555
Location: Webster NY


PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
I'm a big fan of using the right tool for the right job and using good tools. I find they make all the difference when to comes to doing good work. Good tools also make the job easier and will (hopefully) last longer.

Kal


Good tools also make the job SAFER

Silverspoons
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9935
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

silverspoons wrote:
Good tools also make the job SAFER

Good point. Very true. I've cut/scraped myself any number of times using the wrong tool for the job because I was too lazy to go back to the toolbox to get the right thing. I always ends up in more work in the end or something breaking.

Kal

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-MG-



Joined: 05 Dec 2011
Posts: 203



PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal

When you enclosed your vent fan.what did you do about the hole you drilled or what did you do about any condensation that the fan sometimes has?

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9935
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A kept the weep hole in the fan and temporarily placed a small bowl below to catch the drippings. There's about half a cup to a cup of water that drips out over a 60 min boil. I empty it at the end of the brew day.

I want to eventually drain into the hood drain trough that runs all around the hood using a piece of hose (vinyl or similar). That would be simpler.

I'd like to also try completely insulating the exhaust vent to try and keep the steam as warm as possible (so that it condenses less) and then simply plug the weep hole and see what happens. If the steam is kept warm enough and the run is short, no weep hole might be needed.

Kal

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rockinmarty



Joined: 01 Jan 2012
Posts: 15
Location: st-hubert, Qc


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 3:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

By the way Kal can you show us your glycol setup? Would love to see that.
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-MG-



Joined: 05 Dec 2011
Posts: 203



PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 3:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:


My keg freezer (keezer) will be more visible now that it's going into the brewery so I have it a coat of Rustoleum-type paint in black:




Kal


Kal -

Did you just get the universal rustoleum spray can for this job? How many coats did you apply and how many spray bottles did you go through if you used that method?

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9935
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rockinmarty wrote:
By the way Kal can you show us your glycol setup? Would love to see that.

Once I've done testing and setting it up correctly I will be posting more detailed information.

-MG- wrote:
Did you just get the universal rustoleum spray can for this job? How many coats did you apply and how many spray bottles did you go through if you used that method?

I used roll-on rustoleum paint and rolled it on. Not spray paint. Primed it first with a stain blocker primer, then rolled on 2-3 coats. Used less than 1 quart of paint.

Kal

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-MG-



Joined: 05 Dec 2011
Posts: 203



PostLink    Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

Extra shelves were installed in the brewery, (still more to come for the right wall):




I like the look of those bigger shelves. Where did you get them from?[/quote]

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