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skelley
Joined: 24 Feb 2012 Posts: 210 Location: brookfield, wisconsin
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Link Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:30 pm Post subject: sparge timing |
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I recently attempted to rebrew a Belgian IPA that the first time a brewed had an OG of 1.094. I only hit 1.084 this time and I think part of the issue for me is when to begin the sparge. I typically just watch the grain bed and start when I can see it and try to add in equal volume to what I remove ultimately trying to hit my kettle volume and I then stop. Is there any secret or more exacting way to do this because I think beginning sparge early clearly will decrease ones OG? I also found the 34 pounds of grain very difficult to move in temp. during my mash schedule with huge time lags. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11122 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 2:05 am Post subject: |
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I don't understand what you mean by when to "start the sparge". I open up both pumps the same amount. Liquid into the MLT = Liquid out of the MLT. Keep an inch or two on top of the grain bed.
I'm assuming you're fly sparging exactly like what I do in my setup. See my "Brew Day Step by Step" article.
If you're doing something different, let us know what exactly it is that you're doing.
Kal
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skelley
Joined: 24 Feb 2012 Posts: 210 Location: brookfield, wisconsin
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Link Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 1:33 am Post subject: |
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while mashing I recirculate then when it comes time to draw off my wort I draw until about an inch above grain bed and then start to sparge to match output to BK with input from HLT until I hit my final volume. Is this correct? Should I add water from HLT as soon as I begin to collect in BK. That is what I mean by the timing of starting the sparge. Am I lost. My first brew was 94.5 efficient with the current one only at 84% so I missed my FG despite the same grain recipe.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11122 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 2:08 am Post subject: |
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skelley wrote: | while mashing I recirculate then when it comes time to draw off my wort I draw until about an inch above grain bed and then start to sparge to match output to BK with input from HLT until I hit my final volume. Is this correct? |
Sure. Don't let the grain bed go dry is about the only rule.
Quote: | Should I add water from HLT as soon as I begin to collect in BK. That is what I mean by the timing of starting the sparge. |
I don't think it matters. You're just rinsing the wort/sugar from the grain.
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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Holter
Joined: 07 Oct 2011 Posts: 221 Location: Los Angeles, Ca
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Link Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 1:18 am Post subject: Re: sparge timing |
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skelley wrote: | I recently attempted to rebrew a Belgian IPA that the first time a brewed had an OG of 1.094. I only hit 1.084 this time and I think part of the issue for me is when to begin the sparge. I typically just watch the grain bed and start when I can see it and try to add in equal volume to what I remove ultimately trying to hit my kettle volume and I then stop. Is there any secret or more exacting way to do this because I think beginning sparge early clearly will decrease ones OG? I also found the 34 pounds of grain very difficult to move in temp. during my mash schedule with huge time lags. Any thoughts would be appreciated. |
Skelley-
One thing you should pay attention to is how your efficiency drops off when you brew bigger beers. For me, I try to time my sparge to be at least 30 minutes of sparge/runoff and no more than 45 minutes. My goal is to hit 80% extract efficiency each time, and I usually get pretty close. The difference is usually when i brew a beer that has an OG of 1.070 or higher, i typically expect a lower extract % and compensate for that by lowering the expected efficiency percentage to 70%. It looks like you are also encountering a 10% dropoff for higher gravity beers. I would just keep that dropoff in mind for the next time you brew something that big. If you go bigger, consider dropping your expected efficiency even more.
There are ways to extract more sugars from the grain bed, like slowing your sparge down to 60 minutes or more, but you can also pull in off flavors if you aren't careful.
Hope that helps.
_________________ Holter
LABeerFan.com
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skelley
Joined: 24 Feb 2012 Posts: 210 Location: brookfield, wisconsin
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Link Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 4:18 pm Post subject: |
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I think you may be right. The problem is where to put your efficiency. Is it better to error on the lower side of efficiency and then dilute? If so when would you dilute to hit your mark (before or after boil)? My efficiency seems to alway be good but ranging up to 95% and as low as 78%. Consistency is my problem. What do people think about diluting to lower gravity?
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Holter
Joined: 07 Oct 2011 Posts: 221 Location: Los Angeles, Ca
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Link Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 4:31 pm Post subject: |
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skelley wrote: | I think you may be right. The problem is where to put your efficiency. Is it better to error on the lower side of efficiency and then dilute? If so when would you dilute to hit your mark (before or after boil)? My efficiency seems to alway be good but ranging up to 95% and as low as 78%. Consistency is my problem. What do people think about diluting to lower gravity? |
I think a good idea is to set a goal for your Mash efficiency. A lot of people just want to get the highest efficiency possible, and there is certainly nothing wrong with that. My approach was to set a goal for 80% and work on my process to hit 80%. The electric brewery certainly gives you an opportunity to shoot for higher efficiency on a consistent basis, so the number is up o you. I would structure all of your recipes off of this number and take aim at achieving that number each time you brew. Slow and speed your sparge to adjust efficiency.
Take a reading at preboil (make sure to mix up the wort though because you can get inaccurate readings prior to the boil mixing things up for you) and dilute or add DME as needed so you hit your preboil numbers. Diluting with water prior to the boil is not an issue (unless you have crazy water!), nor is adding DME.
Just remember that higher OG beers will generally produce lower efficiency numbers, so I would plan that way. If your system proves to not show a change with higher OG beers than you are good to go. Its all about learning your system.
Good luck
_________________ Holter
LABeerFan.com
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huaco
Joined: 05 Apr 2012 Posts: 1506 Location: Burleson Texas
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Link Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 5:20 pm Post subject: |
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Holter wrote: | Diluting with water prior to the boil is not an issue (unless you have crazy water!), nor is adding DME. |
Whats wrong with Crazy Water?
http://www.famouswater.com/
I work in the same town as this "Boutique" Water company. We drink No.1 in my office and it's good. There are a lot of folks in this town that are missing a lot of teeth... maybe I should not drink the water here! haha...
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