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Kal's basement Brewery/Bar/Home Theatre build 2.0
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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VaWineSnob wrote:
I've installed a lot of Schluter Kerdi, it is by far teh best product on the market.

Cool - good to know!

Just curious: Do you usually install Kerdi membrane over the sheetrock shower walls too or not bother?

Like so:





It seems like overkill but would certainly provide zero chance of leaks.

Kal

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huaco



Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 1508
Location: Burleson Texas


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow! Wallpaper in the shower... Very nice touch lol...
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Michael



Joined: 15 Jul 2012
Posts: 2
Location: Jackson, MS


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 6:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Must use a membrane on shower walls, or you have a good chance of having a mold city and rotten framing once you eventually discover it in 5-10 years. It seems to me that getting a tiled shower installed that will last 50 years without problems is just a little less difficult than building a Kal clone with just a fire and a pile of iron ore!
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VaWineSnob



Joined: 14 Jun 2011
Posts: 88



PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
VaWineSnob wrote:
I've installed a lot of Schluter Kerdi, it is by far teh best product on the market.

Cool - good to know!

Just curious: Do you usually install Kerdi membrane over the sheetrock shower walls too or not bother?

Like so:





It seems like overkill but would certainly provide zero chance of leaks.

Kal


Yes, I always use Kerdi on shower walls. I typically use cement board instead of drywall though. It's belt and suspenders, the Schluter Kerdi can be installed right over drywall.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good to know. I wouldn't mind having the extra protection. We already have cement board up. The question was whether we need to use the Schluter membrane. I'm told that the tile and grout will provide protection too.

Kal

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VaWineSnob



Joined: 14 Jun 2011
Posts: 88



PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Good to know. I wouldn't mind having the extra protection. We already have cement board up. The question was whether we need to use the Schluter membrane. I'm told that the tile and grout will provide protection too.

Kal


John Bridge (I think that's him on the left in your picture above) would tell you that tile and grout are not waterproof. I had a project replacing shower wall tile because the original installer didn't waterproof.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There hasn't been much to show over the last two weeks as we had the mudders/sanders come and go about 3 times now. There are delays between mudding/sanding to let the mud dry.

The painter also came and sprayed an initial coat of tinted primer everywhere.

The drywall guys hung drywall and did a quick single layer of tape in the back storage room (I didn't see the point in paying them to completely finish the drywall there). So one of the evenings I took the leftover mud from that day and did a second coat and sanded to give it a slightly better finished look. The painter had a few gallons of primer left too I figured I might as well roll the back room too:





While it's only a back storage room I paid for all the mud and tinted primer so I might as well use it up. Wink
(The primer isn't returnable and the mud was already mixed. Had I not used the mud it it would have been thrown out the next day when it was a hard as a rock).


Most of the basement will be 3 different Sherwin Williams colours:

SW7031 for bar/brewery (lightest colour):



SW7032 for HT/hallway/DVD room and most of the ceilings (medium colour):



SW7033 for the coffers (uppers) in the home theater ceiling (darkest colour):



The upstairs of our house is SW7030 which is a lighter colour in the same family so the stairs to basement transition should work well:



Here are the 4 colours together:



There's a bit of the bathroom wall and ceiling that needs painting too and it'll a slightly browner tone (Sherwin Willams 6080):



It may look the same as some of the lighter colours further above but colours on computer monitors are deceptive and rarely look correct.

Wall paint colour locations:



Ceiling paint colour locations:




The electrician came back and installed pot lights, light switches, and outlets:





We're going with black decora style switches/outlets with stainless steel cover plates. Because many of the light switches will be Lutron Decora dimmers, for the time being they install cheap $1-2 temporary white switches to avoid the more expensive dimmers from being damaged.

They only install the recessed part of the pot lights. The visible part is stored away because they will be sprayed to match the colour of the ceiling before installation:



We don't have white ceilings so we don't want white pot lights. All our trim (window/door casings and baseboards) will also be painted to match the walls to give it a more modern look.


A hole was cut in the fireplace bump-out drywall for the firebox to be inserted eventually:



This is a Bio Flame ventless biofuel fireplace. The little burner you see in front sits in the firebox insert and is filled with biofuel and lit. There's no vent needed because the fuel burns nearly 100% clean. Like burning pure alcohol. There's a lid you can open/close to put out the fire. It's all stainless.

The cavity around the fireplace needs to be lined with something like Roxul mineral wool insulation to limit heat transfer to the surrounding framing. That has yet to be done.


A slight SNAFU in the bathroom got corrected: We're doing Realstone along one of the walls so the drywall was ripped off and plywood put in it's place:




We were originally going to tile directly on the floor of the brewery but decided it's probably best to put in a subfloor like the rest of the basement. So platon and plywood was installed:



The issue with tiling right on concrete is that any cracks that form over time will transfer through to the tile/mortar and cause the tile and/or grout to crack as well. The subfloor gives you some play since the two are disconnected. While I did seal up all of the cracks that had naturally formed in the foundation floor before work started, more cracks may form over time. Better to be safe than sorry.


The tile, Realstone, doors, trim, and casing were delivered:



The bathroom and sauna floor 12x24" tile is a Gallarata Castanho (darker brown tile on left) while the vanity/urinal/toilet wall tile is lighter Gallarata Cinza (lighter tile on right):



There's a floor to ceiling shower niche that will get a small accent tile (Metrik Opus stick blend 1 0.6x4 (12x12)):



Grout for all of the bathroom tile will be "Progrout Bone #7 floor".

Realstone for the wall between the sauna and bathroom:




The colour is "Mocha Shadowstone" (part of their new collection series).

The bar/brewery 12x24" tile is a rich grey tile that has some interesting striations (hard to see in the pictures):



The tile is ITC Metalli Black (ZT-66150-B-6). I believe this tile is discontinued - we got a price break because we bought that last of it. Grout for this grey tile will be a dark "Progrout Anthracite #4 Floor".

Before tiling the bar/brewery, the plywood needs to be better fastened to the concrete so what seems like an insane amount of Tapcon concrete screws are used:



There's one every 8-12" or so. Some 8x4 boards have 60+ screws! Installing these is back breaking work. (I'm glad I'm not doing it!). You need to first drill a pilot hole with a good hammer drill and then switch to an impact driver to drive the screw home. They tell me they go through 2-3 hammer drills/year just from Tapcon'ing the subfloors.


Tiling the bar/brewery floor:

There's a bit of a catch-22 at play here that results in extra work: You have to start laying tile from inside the brewery and work out towards the bar otherwise you get trapped since you can't walk on the tiles for a good 12+ hours. At the same time you want to make sure that the most visible area has nice full sized tiles. In our case that's in front of the bar where the tile meets carpet. You don't want a small sliver of tile.

So they temporarily lay the "last" tile and then lay out a path of tiles (accounting for grout spacing) all the way back to the brewery corner where the "first" tile will be laid. This lets them know how to cut that "first" tile starting to make sure they ended up with full tile for the "last" tile.





All these things you just don't think about (or things I never realized myself - tile work's one handyman job I've never done).

When is a floor not flat? When it's in a basement.
When does a floor need to be flat? When you want to lay tile, especially larger tiles like this.

Basement cement foundations are rarely ever level/true. Carpet with thick underpad bends and can hide a lot but with tile you really need a nice flat surface to avoid having edges sticking up or down. This is especially true for the larger 1x2' tiles we're using. So in some areas a self-levelling compound is used to even things out a bit:



You just pour it on, spread it, let it dry. It's ok to walk on in only 3 hours, ok to lay tiles in 6 hours. (Ours was left overnight to dry).


Things will be slow over the next 2 weeks as the design/build company doing most of the work shuts down for summer
holidays. We may get a first coat of paint done and the back wall of the brewery may get tiled as well but that's about it.

On the 30th our house power will be shut off from the transformer as we upgrade to a 200A service. A new main 200A breaker panel gets installed in the garage which drives all of the bar/brewery outlets and sauna. Our existing 100A panel becomes a sub-panel to this new one.

Kal

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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0


Last edited by kal on Sat Oct 11, 2014 2:49 pm; edited 6 times in total
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Michael



Joined: 15 Jul 2012
Posts: 2
Location: Jackson, MS


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IMHO Schluter Ditra is an excellent product for preventing crack transfer from shifting subfloors in my experience, and it prevents the need for plywood subfloor over the concrete. It's also won't swell like plywood could from leak or flood that manages to get under the tile. Kind of pricy is the downside.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Michael wrote:
IMHO Schluter Ditra is an excellent product for preventing crack transfer from shifting subfloors in my experience, and it prevents the need for plywood subfloor over the concrete. It's also won't swell like plywood could from leak or flood that manages to get under the tile. Kind of pricy is the downside.




Agreed. It's a product we looked at actually for the brewery floor but decided to go with less expensive plywood & platon. The brewery's not an area that will (or should) have a wet floor in my setup. I don't drain onto the floor. The only way it should get wet is from accidents and I have the floor slightly sloped to a floor drain (just in case).

Going with plywood/osb the same way as the rest of the basement floor seemed to make sense. I hope I haven't jinxed myself with this ... Wink

Kal

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never done any tile installation myself so it was interesting to see what they used to get the job done.

Most times when you have a skilled installer, a really flat subfloor, and regular sized tiles (12x12"), an installer will simply use regular spacers between the tiles that look like this:



Using spacers ensures you get nice evenly sized grout lines between tiles. You avoid having problems like this:



I think that traditionally you're supposed to install them like this:



But most seem to just use them the way our guys did making removal easier where 4 are used sticking out:



The traditional way they will often get stuck in the adhesive/thinset making removal a lot harder. It takes 4 times as many doing it our way (they're cheap so irrelevant) and you have to be more careful to line up the corners of course, but a skilled installer who isn't in a hurry will take his time and ensure the tiles line up.

However, because our tiles are big and our floor isn't always perfectly flat, our guys got about this far before deciding it was a real pain to get the tiles perfectly level:



You want your tiles to be perfectly level to avoid lippage like this:





So to make life easier, they finished off using a different product called Lash tile leveling system that seems pretty ingenious to me:





You install the white piece first below the tiles and then knock in the yellow piece which pulls the two tiles together at the same vertical height. The only gotcha with this setup is that you have to make sure to not create any air pockets below the tile. You need to be careful with how much adhesive/thinset you apply first (what size trowel you use).

Once the tile is set you simply remove the yellow locking device and snap off the top part leaving a plastic bit below the tile.

There are a lot of variants of this system too, some easier/harder to use. Some have tools for tightening making installation easier on the fingers.

Tuscan leveling system:



Raimondi tile leveling system:



Rubi Tile Leveling System:



The Lash leveling system our guys used is probably one of the harder ones to use but is more readily available in our area (sold at Home Depot).

I learnt something!

Kal

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VaWineSnob



Joined: 14 Jun 2011
Posts: 88



PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Michael wrote:
IMHO Schluter Ditra is an excellent product for preventing crack transfer from shifting subfloors in my experience, and it prevents the need for plywood subfloor over the concrete. It's also won't swell like plywood could from leak or flood that manages to get under the tile. Kind of pricy is the downside.




Agreed. It's a product we looked at actually for the brewery floor but decided to go with less expensive plywood & platon. The brewery's not an area that will (or should) have a wet floor in my setup. I don't drain onto the floor. The only way it should get wet is from accidents and I have the floor slightly sloped to a floor drain (just in case).

Going with plywood/osb the same way as the rest of the basement floor seemed to make sense. I hope I haven't jinxed myself with this ... Wink

Kal


I installed tile over wood once. Will never do it again. I had one piece of plywood delaminate on me, the grout started popping up followed by the tile. Wood will expand and contract more than tile, potentially causing the bond between the two to fail. I've used Ditra, and it worked well but I wasn't real thrilled with the additional labor required. I've also used a couple of other products, the names of which escape me right now. I have not used Hydro Ban, but I know pro installers swear by it, here is what John Bridge has to say:

"Because Hydro Ban remains somewhat flexible, when used as a crack isolation membrane it accommodates substrate movement (expansion, contraction, shifting) up to one-eighth inch. If a floor, for instance, is going to move more than that you’d better not install tile or stone on it. Consider laminate or carpet.

"Hydro Ban is tenacious and bonds easily to wood and concrete substrates and to metal and plastic piping and plumbing fixtures. Thin-set mortar, the “glue” of the tile and stone setting industry, bonds directly to the membrane."

I learned most of what I know about tile from John Bridge's website and by experience, i.e. I've made many mistakes over the years. There is a lot of useful tile information here: http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/

If you haven't started the tile install in your brewery, I highly recommend some type of crack preventative.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the input. The brewery and bar floor are already completely tiled unfortunately (see previous pictures). The guy I use isn't into cutting corners or saving costs and hasn't had issues with tile over plywood/platon in the last 10-20 years they've been doing this so hopefully it'll be fine. Knock on wood!

It may depend on the house/location/etc, how much humidity you get into the wood, what sort of water barrier you use (we used platon). And so on..

They do also use an insane amount of Tapcons concrete screws on the plywood to keep it down tight. I counted 60+ on one 8x4 sheet of 1/2" plywood. I think as long as moisture stays out we should be ok. I agree that the Schluter Ditra should work wonderfully but they mentioned it's considerably more expensive. They do provide a good warranty (twice as long as what my builder provides for stuff like this). Time will tell I suppose.

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Thu Aug 09, 2012 12:52 pm; edited 1 time in total
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 12:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tile in the brewery was finished today. All that's missing is grout:





The door was hung as well because they needed to figure out how far the door trim would jut into the room so that they would know how close they need to get with the 5" tile baseboard. Doors are usually bought pre-hung and then shimmed to fit, which means you never really know exactly how much gap you're going to have to shim, and therefore you never know how far in the trim/casing is going to jut into the room. You have to hang it to see...


Most of the bathroom floor tile was done (minus the shower and the sauna):



Cutting tile to fit around things looks like it would be really annoying to do. Not every piece always works out which is why you need to buy extras. For example, here's the first attempt at cutting a tile to fit the toilet flange:



Crap. Nothing worse than cutting the tile size to fit, then notching the circle all around carefully, only to have an edge pop off as you try and knock out the center. The fact that the circle is near two edges certainly doesn't help either. While I didn't do the work myself, I'm paying them by the hour (not fixed price) so I have the right to curse. Wink

Here's the final piece that didn't break:



Just like in the brewery, careful attention was spent on figuring out where the first tile would go to make sure that we didn't end up with an odd small sliver of tiles up the side of a wall or somewhere else that was very apparent. Having the toilet flange cutout near two edges of one tile was an unfortunate consequence that just meant that one piece was harder to cut. Unfortunate as nobody will probably care or notice ... it's under the toilet.

These bigger 1x2' tiles also means that there's more wastage as compared to a standard 1x1' tile. Why? When you cut a bit off any tile (regardless of size) odds are you won't use the leftover piece. It most likely gets thrown out. The larger the tile, the more you've just thrown away. So when you do you tile take-off sheets to calculate how much square footage you need, you need to account for more wastage with larger tiles.

Our bar/brewery tile is actually discountinued/end of stock so we bought some extra, just in case. We have about 10 tiles extra (just over one box). I guess that means I'm ok to drop a pint and smash a tile by accident no more than 10 times...

A close-up of the Lash tile leveling system used (mentioned earlier):




Before the tile was installed they laid out the Schluter Kerdi linear drain and waterproof membrane for the shower floor as it extends out a bit past the shower into the room:



In our case it's a giant piece of foam that goes on the bottom, a two part drain assembly, a triangle sliver of stainless steel that goes on the side of the shower facing into the room (so that you don't have to try and install slivers of 1/2" tile because of the slight slant), and then an expansion joint where the slightly angled shower tile meets the flat floor tile :



Lots of boxes for what doesn't amount to much once installed. Schluter (of Germany) is known for completely over-engineering their products.

The Schluter Kerdi orange waterproofing membrane will go up the wall a foot or so if not higher. While some installers completely line the shower walls with the stuff right up to near the ceiling, my installer's telling me it's complete overkill for the tile/grout/cement board we're using as water hitting the vertical tile surface will just drop. They have done both however: Up the wall a foot or so, or almost all the way to the ceiling. I'll talk to them about going up to about shower head height as that seems to make the most sense. They're not trying to save a buck as I pay for everything (it's not a fixed cost project).

Kal

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lars311



Joined: 27 Jul 2012
Posts: 2
Location: Frederick, MD


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 3:39 pm    Post subject: Wall board question Reply with quote

I'm currently finishing off a portion of the basement in my new home for a brewery. I had them run 220 to the area and put a floor drain in for me. I was wondering what sort of wall board you used. It seemed that you weren't to interested in moisture so you used regular board but I wanted to make sure.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the brewery I used standard drywall, not cement board or even the green moisture resistant drywall. I'm treating it like a kitchen, not considered a wash down or completely wet location.

Just like a kitchen stove/hood however you need to ensure you have proper ventilation when boiling. You should not have any condensation build up around the hood fan at all.

If you have a floor drain and plan on dumping water directly on the floor you should probably line it like a shower and user waterproofing membrane. If you plan on regularly hosing down the walls you should do the same on the walls. Essentially like one big shower.

I do have a floor drain installed but it's for emergencies only: If ever something was to leak I want it to go to the drain and not somewhere else.

My previous brewery did not have a drain and I never made a mess or had major spills to clean up. Just like a kitchen really. Some water will splash sometimes but it's not a wet environment (for me).

So that is for me and my brewing process. So it really depends on how you brew. I'm fortunate that I've got a few years into using this system from the previous brewing room so I have a process that works well. That room was tiled and had drywall only behind it. There was no floor drain so I got used to not using one. I installed a large sink instead. Had I had a floor drain things may have been different.

If you tend to constantly spill or purposely pour lots of water or other liquids on the floor then consider going an extra step with waterproofing the floor. If someoe's doing the work for you talk to them about the intended use. They should be able to offer some advice. Don't tell them it's a "brewery" as they'll have no idea what that actually means as far as usage goes.

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Thu Aug 09, 2012 12:57 pm; edited 2 times in total
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something to keep in mind too Lars is that I would at least paint it in a kitchen/bathroom type finish paint that can be wiped down (semi-gloss or similar). My brewery walls will be wipeable and the wall behind the kettles is all tile/grout so some slight splashing would be tolerated. Similar to what you'd have a behind a stove where people often put decorative tile.

I'm hoping to avoid the problem of staining that you often get with decorative kitchen backsplash however as my tile's all dark and the grout will be dark. Often nowadays in kitchens you have lighter glass or mosaic tile behind the stove that's been grouted with light coloured grout that just loves to show off spaghetti sauce stains and the like.

Kal

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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0


Last edited by kal on Thu Aug 09, 2012 12:59 pm; edited 1 time in total
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lars311



Joined: 27 Jul 2012
Posts: 2
Location: Frederick, MD


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you very much. Already planning it up in google sketchup..
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds good! I recommend starting your own thread and asking questions. I'd certainly be interested in seeing what you come up with.

Kal

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10077
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 2:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After a week or so off, work has resumed.

The bathroom shower waterproofing has been done and tiling has started (floor first):







There's a very slight incline in the shower area towards the drain:




The Sloan urinal flushometer (1 gallon per flush) and cover plate:



The hole where the flushometer will be installed that will then be covered over by the cover plate:




Paint has arrived:




Door installation and trim has started. Bathroom and mechanical room doors:



The bathroom door has 5 glass (opaque) panels. Once installed you take a box cutter or other sharp knife and score the primer paint and peel it off.

The brewery door is bare wood for now but will be painted:



We weren't sure if we were going to go with a stained door or painted so the better of the two was ordered just in case.


A new 200A electrical panel was installed in the garage. The meter sits just on the other side of the wall:



This is now our "main" panel with a large 200A breaker on the bottom. The original 100A feed can be seen going out the top which leads to the existing 100A panel that services the entire house minus a few new basement items.

In addition to serving the 100A sub-panel, the new 200A panel also serves the brewery, sauna, and bar areas:



Three separate circuits were pulled for the 3 freezers that will go in the brewery. One converted freezer for the 8 kegs on tap, one smaller 4-6 keg freezer for lagering/aging, and third tiny freezer for hops/yeast and for the glycol loop to chill the 8 serving lines.

Keeping these freezers on separate circuits is recommended. If you put too many compressor based devices on a single 15A breaker you risk popping the breaker if ever the power goes out for a while and then comes back.

Compressor based devices (fridges, freezers, dehumidifyers, air conditioners) have a huge initial inrush of current when the compressor first kicks in. This is why your fridge/freezer manual always recommends plugging the device on its own dedicated circuit. The last thing you want is to have 2-3 freezers on one circuit and have the power go off for a few minutes while you're out of town, then kick back on and pop the breaker. You'll come home to freezer/fridges full of spoilt food (or in our case warm beer which is considerably more serious).

Kal

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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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VaWineSnob



Joined: 14 Jun 2011
Posts: 88



PostLink    Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking great Kal. I'm glad to see you decided to take the Kerdi all the way up the shower walls.
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