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Kal's basement Brewery/Bar/Home Theatre build 2.0
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9494
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Our building/plumbing inspection yesterday. Everything went very well. The inspector didn't find any issues at all which is sigh of relief.

While we're not doing anything wrong on purpose, in some cases we're pushing the code into grey areas where it could possibly be interpreted different ways, depending on the inspector. The use of sprayfoam is a good example. While it's been around for nearly 20 years I'm told that it's only recently become allowed in the Ontario building code for residential use. Because of this many inspectors are still trying to wrap their heads around the proper usage of sprayfoam.

The only thing that was questioned was whether some sort of special barrier was required between the electrical boxes and sprayfoam, but after a quick confirmation turns out that nothing special is required. (I'm assuming that sprayfoam is more combustable than regular fiberglass insulation).

Most of the interior walls that will be insulated have now been done as well and many small things were finished in anticipation of drywall.

Back of the sauna:




DVD area:




Bathroom:




I'll be good to cover all this up with drywall. The pastel pink & green colour combination really doesn't work for me. I'm having flashbacks of Grandma's house where she used have bowls of pillow mints all over the place:




The alumimum vapour barrier was installed in the sauna:




In the brewery some of the plumbing comes very close to the edge of the studs so protector plates were installed in some spots:



The protector plate is to protect wiring or plumbing in the wall from future screws/nails from the drywall installers (low risk of happening since they see what's there before they hang the sheets) and home owners hanging things (more likely).


A cold air return was installed beside what will eventually be the home theater equipment rack:



You normally want a basement cold air return near the bottom of the basement stairs to pick up the cold air that naturally falls down the stairs so this is a logical place to put it. It's also directly accessible to the main cold air return. To keep noise down an insulated flex-duct was installed instead of using rigid sheet metal duct. There's another return near the bar area that was installed that took considerably more twists and turns. A third is in the mechanical room.

All of the remaining ceiling strapping has been installed to get ready for drywall:



Previously only about half was done to make installation of the insulation easier. I (carefully) moved the copper natural gas line over 4-6" (the snake like pipe in the right of the picture above). Now it's directly between two pieces of strapping instead of right up against one. I figured it was just an accident waiting to happen by an overzealous drywall installer.


Today drywall was delivered and has been spread out to various areas:



It actually doesn't look like much when it's all spread out like that. We have:

- 21 sheets regular 1/2" x 4' x 8'
- 27 sheets regular 1/2" x 4' x 9'
- 10 sheets regular 1/2" x 4' x 10'
- 35 sheets regular 1/2" x 4' x 12'
- 2 sheets regular 3/8" x 4' x 8' (I'm curious what this thinner stuff is for - maybe niches?)
- 7 sheets moisture resistant 1/2" x 4' x 8' (bathroom)
- 5 sheets moisture resistant 1/2" x 4' x 10' (bathroom)
- 4 sheets cement board 1/2" x 4' x 8' (shower)

We're not using moisture resistant drywall (the green stuff) in the brewery as I'm treating it like a kitchen and tiling the entire floor and the wall where the kettles/hood will be used. Just like a kitchen, there should not be any excess moisture in the air that would condense like you may have in a bathroom because of the shower. My brewery hood vent is directly above the kettles and has worked very well in the past to keep all moisture out of the room.


A couple of pictures of the brewery fan exhaust system (6" duct):






The air inlet from outside (also 6" duct), similar to how you'd feed an HRV:



An adjustable ceiling diffuser that can be turned to open/close will be used. Looks a bit like this:



I'll manually open it when I turn on the hood fan at the start of brew day. We talked about an automated damper with the wall switch that will control the fan (it would open when the fan turns on) but that just seemed like extra complexity/money for little benefit. The wall switch to turn on the hood fan sits directly below the adjustable ceiling diffuser.

Drywall starts Tuesday. Should take about a week to board/mud/sand. This will most definitely be the messiest part.

Kal

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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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wubears71



Joined: 14 Mar 2012
Posts: 278
Location: Webster Groves, MO

Drinking: Keg 1- Hefenweizen, Keg 2- Vanilla Scotch Porter, Keg 3-Munich Helles

Working on: Stinky IPA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good. Inspectors drive me insane - especially when it comes to 'newer' technology allowed by code. I was so pissed about my deck inspection years ago that despite it being built to survive a Category 5 Hurricane (The nearest ocean/gulf is over 800 miles away), I had to go back and install nails in a manner that was standard practice 10+ years ago. The inspector preferred his method despite it being antiquated.
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3 DUKES



Joined: 26 Jun 2012
Posts: 6
Location: CALIFORNIA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 11:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not even going to ask you what this project is costing though... it looks worth every penny! Excited to see more updates!
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9494
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My wife's been busy picking out few extra missing pieces that will go in the basement. Lots of hours went into finding something that met the style we're going for and in the budget we want to stay within. Everyone has different styles but luckily both my wife and I have the same tastes. When we don't, she's right. Wink


Wall art for the lounge:

"Dragon's Breath" Modern Metal Wall Art Decor Sculpture

Also available on eBay



Lounge chairs:

Barcelona chair - Black Leather




Lounge pendant light:

Eurofase 12531-035 Dervish 5-Light Pendant Lighting, Satin Nickel




Bar stools:

Nuevo Living - Portland Adjustable Stool - Black Top Grain Italian Leather




Shower tower:

Fresca FSP8006BS Brushed Silver Verona Five Handle Shower System with Rainshower Head, Four Massaging Jets and Hand Shower




Bar fridge (beverage center):

Marvel 6GARM-BB-O-L Refrigerator 24W, Solid Overlay, Left Hinge




Kal

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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0


Last edited by kal on Sun Feb 08, 2015 3:26 pm; edited 5 times in total
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huaco



Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 1508
Location: Burleson Texas


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ha! They have Heiny-wiser in the cooler... You can do better Kal...
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Spike Innovations
TheElectricBrewery.com manufacturer


Joined: 26 Feb 2011
Posts: 247
Location: ME

Working on: Your Brewery!


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

huaco wrote:
Ha! They have Heiny-wiser in the cooler... You can do better Kal...


That's far better than Busch light (barf) and bud (double barf)!

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9494
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ha! I never noticed the beer selection. Funny. I can certainly do better I hope. There won't be any beer in the fridge at all. It's all on tap! Wink

There might be a few vokda coolers and bottles of white wine in there for the lady friends however ...

Kal

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VaWineSnob



Joined: 14 Jun 2011
Posts: 85



PostLink    Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm curious why you decided on the Marvel bar fridge? I know nothing about the brand.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9494
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VaWineSnob wrote:
I'm curious why you decided on the Marvel bar fridge? I know nothing about the brand.

Beverage centers run the gamut of prices. It was very confusing to research. They seem to either be really cheaply made (and still expensive for what you get), or really well made and also really expensive.

Our requirements:

- A built-in model (zero clearance)
- Cool to at least 40F or lower
- Not feel junky
- Under counter size
- Not too much wine storage (1-2 shelves)

The low end models from Danby, Magic Chef, GE, Haier, and so on starting at around $200 are not built-ins. They require that you leave space around them as the evaporator coils are in the back. They also don't chill down the levels that most people are used to for their fridge (around 38F): Most only go as low as around 42-43F. To make matters worse, a lot of them just seem really poorly built.

To get into a a built-in model as we wanted you have to go to at least a middle end unit which tend to be in the $1000-2000 range. This seems to include GE Monogram, Marvel, Kitchenaid, Vinotemp, U-Line, Avanti, Viking, Maytag, Danby Silhouette, etc. Most do not go cold enough, only as low as 42-43F. It may be enough (they say a drinks only fridge don't need to be as cold as a regular fridge) but I don't really like the idea of running anything at its rated limit.

A lot of these brands are what I'd consider "normal" brands that have been "fancied up" to compete in the luxury market. Danby Silhouette and GE Monogram are good examples. I don't like the idea of buying the "best" of any company that is different from what they're used to making as skills/technology trickles down, rarely ever up. Not to pick on thes two necessarily, but whenever a manufacturer tries to play in an area they're not used to it's a risk. It's usually the same designers/engineers/assembly people that are responsible for making a $100 fridge as a $1000-1500 fridge.

Marvel makes a bunch of higher end stuff but probably not quite as high as the real luxury brands like Sub Zero and Perlick. You could argue that U-Line, Viking Professional, Liebherr, and a few others play in this area too. The Marvel stuff starts at around $1500 vs. the $2000-3000+ for the other luxury brands. I'd love to have Sub Zero in there but couldn't justify the cost. It was almost twice the price. I liked the idea of buying the lowest end Marvel instead of (say) the highest end GE or Danby.

Marvel is part if the AGA/Marvel/Northland/Heartland family of brands. Many would probably know it better by the AGA name.

Kal

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9494
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We're putting a sliding barn-door style sliding door at the bottom of the stairs using this hanging hardware:



Link: [Cordia] European Modern Stainless Wood Sliding Barn Door Hardware Set

To make sure the sliding bar hardware would be well supported, I reinforced a bunch of the framing with 2x4's:



You don't want to hang a door only from drywall. While there are 5 connection points where the rod will be supported, having a good backing all the way across means you don't have to worry about hitting a stud. It also lets the screw spacing be even.

Yesterday they hung the drywall:















The bathroom (photo above) is the only room drywalled with moisture resistant drywall (the green stuff) and cement board for the shower. Everywhere else was standard 1/2" drywall.

I noticed that in at least a couple of spots I could see (the wall behind the home theater screen and rack) they actually used a bead of PL adhesive first between the drywall and the studs and then screwed. I'm not sure why. Anyone seen this done? I'm sure it gives good adhesion but I'm not sure why just screwing wouldn't be adequate. Maybe it's because the (snallish) room behind the screen will be completely enclosed and they're worried that the walls may move slightly with pumping as the door is opened/closed? No idea. What's odd is that they didn't glue the wall that faces into the furnace room. I'll have to ask when they come back to mud.

Sometimes one trade will make a mistake and leave an apologetic note for the next guy... in this case the drywall hanger broke off a corner and will leave it for the mudder to fix. In this case the mudder is actually his boss and the owner of the company, so it's nice to be polite: Wink



Next step: Mudding.

Kal

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Spike Innovations
TheElectricBrewery.com manufacturer


Joined: 26 Feb 2011
Posts: 247
Location: ME

Working on: Your Brewery!


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow its actually starting to come together. I'm sure you are getting excited. When is the estimated completion date?
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9494
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spike Innovations wrote:
Wow its actually starting to come together. I'm sure you are getting excited. When is the estimated completion date?

I actually don't know...! Wink It was originally scheduled to take about 12 weeks which would put our end date at July 24. But that was a really early estimate based on a slightly simpler design and assuming that trades could be lined up and be working every day. This hasn't worked out 100% as there have been a few down days, waiting for others, and so on...

We're 9 weeks in now and I figure some time mid-August we'll be finished. A lot of people wouldn't like having their house in a shambles like this but I'm not pushing to have it done fast. I want it done right. That's one of the benefits of working time & material with a contractor and teams you trust (instead of fixed price). I'd be uncomfortable going time & material if it was any other contractor.

Kal

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9494
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
I noticed that in at least a couple of spots I could see (the wall behind the home theater screen and rack) they actually used a bead of PL adhesive first between the drywall and the studs and then screwed. I'm not sure why. Anyone seen this done? I'm sure it gives good adhesion but I'm not sure why just screwing wouldn't be adequate.

Ok, turns out that the PL makes for good adhesion which then means you can use less screws which means less screw pops on the long run.

Kal

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huaco



Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 1508
Location: Burleson Texas


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Next step: Mudding.


Then... Sanding. (AKA. The real big mess) I grew up hanging wallpaper with Dad in his business. I have done my fair share of drywall sanding from piss-poor tape and bedders leaving junk all over the walls! Down here we don't have very respectful tradesmen. They just got their jobs slapped together and didn't care about what mess they were leaving for those scheduled behind them. Dad instilled in me that it was our job to leave the place as clean as possible for the next trade... Usually flooring. That meant I did a lot of floor scraping and vacuuming as well... Yes, vacuuming bare concrete...
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9494
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

huaco wrote:
Dad instilled in me that it was our job to leave the place as clean as possible for the next trade...

That's a great thing to instill in people. In the case of the hangers and mudders, the hangers WORK for the mudder so they need to do a good job.

Kal

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9494
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



We're installing a Schluter Kerdi-line linear floor drain in the shower. It's a new product that's been out for less than a year it seems.
Also appears overly complex to install based on this video (glad I'm not doing it!):

Installation video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Kh1NU0RcYnM#!
Website: http://kerdi-line.com/
Technical data sheet: http://www.schluter.com/media/KERDI-LINE-ENG.pdf

Three types of grate assembly are available:



- Linear
- Grated
- tiled (you reuse your floor tile)

We prefer the linear look:



Kal

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huaco



Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 1508
Location: Burleson Texas


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's nice! The shower floor only has to drain in one direction. Do these drains have some type of screen below the inlet to screen out the huge hair-balls that women shed each time they shower?
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9494
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

huaco wrote:
That's nice! The shower floor only has to drain in one direction.
Do these drains have some type of screen below the inlet to screen out the huge hair-balls
that women shed each time they shower?

Good question - I don't know. It doesn't appear to have anything special looking at the pictures. No women allowed in the shower I suppose. Wink

Kal

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VaWineSnob



Joined: 14 Jun 2011
Posts: 85



PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've installed a lot of Schluter Kerdi, it is by far teh best product on the market.
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rvklein



Joined: 17 Jan 2011
Posts: 20



PostLink    Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal, everything looks great!
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