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Kenny
Joined: 10 May 2011 Posts: 9 Location: Philadelphia
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Link Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 5:54 pm Post subject: |
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I've used my system twice so far- The coil transferred heat perfectly the first time. The second time was a little trickier due to a stuck mash tun and opaque hoses but based on my limited experience I would agree with Kal and say the 50' is definitely enough
So where in Pa are you from?
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 3:27 pm Post subject: |
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EDIT: Someone just asked if the doubled up elements are wired in series or parallel but seems to have erased their post now. Here's my response anyway:
Parallel. See the first post in this thread for more details. It says:
Quote: | Add two extra NEMA L6-30 (250VAC/30A) twist lock electrical female receptacles to the bottom for the two extra elements. The extra outlets would be wired in parallel (not series) with existing ones to give the same 240V drop across each element. Each receptacle would pull 4500W of power for a total of 9000W per kettle. I like the idea of just doubling up elements and keeping how they’re connected to the kettle and control panel exactly the same as it would be easier and also cheaper, you simply have two 10 ga cords going to each kettle instead of one. The other option is to upgrade the receptacles to 50A versions and fatter 6 ga wire which goes into one outlet box to power one element and then splits off with 10 ga wire into a second outlet box to power the other element. This is likely messier, harder wiring, more connection points around the kettle. Also requires more of a redesign with different wiring of course, something that isn’t documented. If we stick with what’s already documented on my site it’s dead simple as people can just follow existing instructions. You just do 4 elements instead of 2. Easy. |
Kal
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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
Last edited by kal on Wed Jan 11, 2012 3:29 pm; edited 1 time in total
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ohararp
Joined: 30 Aug 2011 Posts: 29
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Link Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 3:29 pm Post subject: |
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Kal, of course I double checked after my post. Just deleted. Thanks for the quick response though!
_________________ Ryan O'Hara
www.ohararp.com
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TheSyndicateBrew
Joined: 04 Jan 2012 Posts: 4 Location: Pa
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Link Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:45 pm Post subject: |
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Kenny wrote: | I've used my system twice so far- The coil transferred heat perfectly the first time. The second time was a little trickier due to a stuck mash tun and opaque hoses but based on my limited experience I would agree with Kal and say the 50' is definitely enough
So where in Pa are you from? |
I'm from the York county area.
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Kenny
Joined: 10 May 2011 Posts: 9 Location: Philadelphia
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Link Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 4:12 pm Post subject: |
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Cool. Im about 1.5-2 hours from there. Good luck with your build
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WAKeele
Joined: 17 Dec 2011 Posts: 15 Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
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Link Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 7:53 am Post subject: |
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Would one be able to run a 50A box for a 30A system to allow for room to expand down the road?
_________________ WAK
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 2:06 pm Post subject: |
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WAKeele wrote: | Would one be able to run a 50A box for a 30A system to allow for room to expand down the road? |
Yes. Most definitely. On the 50 amp control panel you have 4 heating element receptacles on the bottom instead of 2 to allow for 2 heating elements per kettle.
There's no reason why you couldn't only use 2 of them for now, in something like 20 gallon kettles (for example). There would be one in each kettle just like my setup.
Then later down the road when you want to upgrade to (say) 55 gallon kettles, you would install 2 elements per kettle and plug them in.
The system would look, feel, and behave identically. Just more power per kettle (9000W instead of 5500W).
We're currently working on building a couple of 50 amp control panels for customers and plan on having them up for sale some time in (hopefully) early 2012.
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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WAKeele
Joined: 17 Dec 2011 Posts: 15 Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
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Link Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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Excellent! I was thinking there shouldn't be anything keeping me from doing that, but wanted to make sure. I'll take one then! (I'll be sending an email shortly)
_________________ WAK
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 6:31 pm Post subject: |
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WAKeele wrote: | Excellent! I was thinking there shouldn't be anything keeping me from doing that, but wanted to make sure. I'll take one then! (I'll be sending an email shortly) |
Yup. It's more cost however of course. Parts get more expensive as you move up in amperage. At 50 amps things are still somewhat standardized. Above that there are basically no standards when it comes to plugs/connectors so things get very expensive very fast if the intent is to keep the design the same.
If you never expect to brew more than (say) 20 gallons at once then there's no reason to go with a 50 amp control panel/power cord/outlet as they do cost more.
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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pbrink231
Joined: 18 Jan 2011 Posts: 28 Location: Bloomfield, CT
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Link Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 10:20 pm Post subject: |
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I was wondering if its possible to run 2x 30Amp outlets and have the box work off that. Since your ending up using 4 elements couldnt you just add the extra inlet to run the other two. The box would need to be increased of course to add the other elements but this way you could easily expand when the time is right to increase an extra two 5500W heating elements.
I was looking into this way so that I could have both the HLT and the Boil tank run at the same time for now and 2 at the same time in one tank later when I get larger tanks.
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WAKeele
Joined: 17 Dec 2011 Posts: 15 Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
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Link Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 11:54 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah, this reminds me of something I was thinking about before I got derailed by life. Would it be easy to rig a four element system where you could individually control each element so you could have any two elements running at a time? Something that could allow for using say two Boil elements to bring to a boil, then switch to one to maintain and bring up one in the HLT.
_________________ WAK
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Rcwilbert
Joined: 11 Feb 2011 Posts: 1
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Link Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:30 pm Post subject: |
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Anybody with a 1 bbl have heat times they would like to share using this setup? Mostly looking for someone that uses the 2 4500W elements.
Thanks,
Rick
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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aproveau@gmail.com
Joined: 11 Mar 2012 Posts: 4
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Link Posted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 11:34 pm Post subject: Hole placement |
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Any information regarding the placement (how far from the bottom) the two heating element holes and the HERMS coil are for a 55 gallon Blichmann BoilerMaker kettle?
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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aproveau@gmail.com
Joined: 11 Mar 2012 Posts: 4
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Link Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 12:45 am Post subject: Re: Hole placement |
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Thanxs Kal!
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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sethx9
Joined: 04 Jul 2012 Posts: 2
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Link Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 2:34 am Post subject: Identifying parts in pictures |
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In the photo of the inside of the 50A panel (not the back of the door) what is that mounted between the buses on the top right and the transformers and DC power supplies on the top left? And do you have part numbers and suppliers for those perforated cages over the transformers and DC power supplies?
Thanks!
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