Heating Element Controller Question

berzai@sbcglobal.net · Joined: 29 Mar 2011 Posts: 74 Location: Indiana

I will run a 4 wire, easy enough. To put you at ease, the system will be run by a professional electrician. I needed to get an idea of the hardware used for this application, as he is as well versed in home brewing.

As for the switches, I will purchase the ones Kal suggests. I may have a few questions as I go along, but for now thanks getting the ball rolling. If I get time, I'll take some pics of the progress.

rosenjm · Joined: 21 Dec 2010 Posts: 249 Location: Ballston Spa, NY

I don't mean to sound like an ass, I'd just hate for someone to get hurt. I've been working with high voltage electrical components for 20 years and I've seen highly trained technicians loose fingers, sustain 3rd degree burns and die working on controllers that are very similar to the one Kal has designed.

I think that having a professional install your 240V receptical is a very good idea, not to mention it is required in most states. If you have questions, please ask. There is a lot of experience on this site. Just ask first and turn it on second. Smile

Grandequeso · Joined: 17 Mar 2011 Posts: 36 Location: Jacksonville, Fl

I know you are going for a bare bones build, but I would definately suggest that you throw in a low amperage in-line fuse to feed your controls (the PID and contactor) You could get a small fuse holder at a auto parts store or radio shack. I threw a one amp fuse in mine as my control panel doesnt control my pumps, I think that is what Auber suggests to use. It might cost an extra $10 to add the fuse, but that a lot better than smoking your equimptment. If you go with a 240volt set up you could just throw two fuses one on each line coming in. Also I don't suggest buying your PID from anyone but Auber you'll see cheaper ones on ebay, but most of them are serious junk, and good luck trying to mail one back to china for a refund.

berzai@sbcglobal.net · Joined: 29 Mar 2011 Posts: 74 Location: Indiana

So a quick rundown.

I'm running a 4 wire line connected to the GFCI 50 amp breaker in my main circuit breaker box. This will run to a standard 4 wire outlet.

I am purchasing a 4 prong plug for the project box. The project box will plug into the aforementioned outlet. From there the 4 wires will run into the project box, which will be run through a water resistant compression opening, similar to the aluminum one used for the element housing.

I will follow the schematic suggested in this thread. At the bottom of the project box will be the outlet for the element. From the front you will see the PID, 2 switches, one for the PID, and one for the contacter. I would also like to include a light the turns on when the switch that engages the PID is on.

I was just hoping not to go too cheap, but to keep it simple. Right now, I just want to run the HLT element, in the future it would be an option to add another element outlet with a toggle between the two, but for right now, this is the plan.

Need to order the project box, PID, SSR and heat sink, probe, contacter, switches per Kal's website, and a light. I'm stopping by Lowe's today to get some 14 and 10 wire, terminals, and a few other odds and ends.

Really the question is wiring in the light and where to buy/install the fuses. I will have more as the stuff starts coming in, but for now, that is the plan...

Comments?

bbognerks · Joined: 10 Jan 2011 Posts: 51 Location: Wichita, KS

If you are getting the switch and light from kal's links, you might as well get the contactor as well. It's about $5 cheaper from them than auber.

I wish I knew how to code links for Kal's credit.
Contactor
Pilot Lights
Switches

(Links edited by Kal...)

Make sure you msg them for combined shipping

berzai@sbcglobal.net · Joined: 29 Mar 2011 Posts: 74 Location: Indiana

Suggestions for the thermocouple? I was under the impression it came with a lock nut, washer and o-ring. Did you use the same technique to make a water tight seal as the heating element? If not, which way did you go?

rosenjm · Joined: 21 Dec 2010 Posts: 249 Location: Ballston Spa, NY

berzai@sbcglobal.net · Joined: 29 Mar 2011 Posts: 74 Location: Indiana

Here is the path I was thinking on going. The pilot light I'm not sure about. As for the wire gauge, I plan on using all 10, but where can I use 14. Also, where the black line splits to the PID and the contactor/ssr, could I splice these or should I use some sort of terminal bar. At some point in the future, I would like to add another element, but for now this is where I stand.

Mounting the ssr and contractor, which way did you go?

pola0502ds · Joined: 14 Mar 2011 Posts: 290 Location: poland, Ohio

the thermocouple pictured, is that what you plan to use?

berzai@sbcglobal.net · Joined: 29 Mar 2011 Posts: 74 Location: Indiana

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=107&zenid=f687703dfff3e03a878e953916e2edcd

The link above is the one I currently have.

bbognerks · Joined: 10 Jan 2011 Posts: 51 Location: Wichita, KS

If you are using a 240v Pilot Light, then you need to wire it in parallel with the element.

berzai@sbcglobal.net · Joined: 29 Mar 2011 Posts: 74 Location: Indiana

Where does the in line fuse fit into the picture?