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JBwelding Yes or No

 
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longarmbrewing



Joined: 16 Dec 2010
Posts: 74
Location: WA


PostLink    Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 6:28 am    Post subject: JBwelding Yes or No Reply with quote


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So did anyone else not JBweld the cable panel? With the gasket and a 6 coats of paint I think it is fairly well sealed.

I elected to move the power to the other side of the box so I would not have to relocate the ground post. This resulted in ditching the alarm light but the buzzer has an LED built in so it seems rather redundant to have both.

Anyway just getting the thoughts of others on this. It's far to late to change it now.

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crush



Joined: 28 Dec 2010
Posts: 709
Location: Telemark, Norway


PostLink    Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 7:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was wondering if jbweld is overkill too and if there is an alternative. Perhaps adhesive sillicone sealant would do? I don't look forward to grinding down the screws, and perhaps silicone sealant is strong enough to hold the panel in place and create a water tight seal.
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coffeediver



Joined: 18 Dec 2010
Posts: 174
Location: Kiowa CO.


PostLink    Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went ahead with the JB Weld, turns out my heat sink hits right about on the seems and raised screw heads would have interfered with the heat sink sitting flush. The grinding of the screws was actually very easy. I have a flexible sanding grinding wheel which helps and only took a few minutes to get all of them. Just be careful not to go too deep into the boxes finish, Although if mounted high enough this part won't be seen.

Coffeediver

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longarmbrewing



Joined: 16 Dec 2010
Posts: 74
Location: WA


PostLink    Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess the screws aren't an issue if you use the smaller sinks.
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Castermmt



Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 864
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used the JB weld to seal the plate without the foam seal and then used Bondo brand body & fender filler to level it off. I did leave the two screws in but feel I could have removed them without any concerns of it ever coming apart.
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Sparky



Joined: 17 Dec 2010
Posts: 221
Location: Muir Beach, California


PostLink    Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Castermmt wrote:
used Bondo brand body & fender filler to level it off.


Gotta love Bondo. With Bondo and Duck Tape, anything is possible.
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crush



Joined: 28 Dec 2010
Posts: 709
Location: Telemark, Norway


PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you guys think, do we really need the screws to hold the plate in place? or can we do without them if using a good epoxy?
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Castermmt



Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 864
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 12:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think you need them as long as you sand the contact areas first to give it some teeth for your epoxy to adhere to,If you don't, you may have the base paint come loose not the epoxy. I also recommend the Bondo body filler on top to smooth it off. Make sure you do all your drilling and cutting from the out side as well. Castermmt
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crush



Joined: 28 Dec 2010
Posts: 709
Location: Telemark, Norway


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks castermnt, useful info for a metalwork noob like me! I don't have bondo over here, is that a kind of caulk?

Drilling from the outside in, is that to keep the outside surface as flat and burr free as possible?

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Sparky



Joined: 17 Dec 2010
Posts: 221
Location: Muir Beach, California


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

crush wrote:
I don't have bondo over here, is that a kind of caulk?


Bondo is compound that hardens after you mix it, I guess you could call it an epoxy. What's great about it is that you can apply it like drywall compound - smear it all around and get it smooth. Then, "poof," it's dry in 20 minutes and then you can sand it. It is typically used in auto body repair. Very durable.

He-he, when I was in Indonesia surfing (late 90's), I had a ding in my surfboard and they guys down there said, "No problem, brah." Well, they ended up using Bondo to fill in the ding!
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Castermmt



Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 864
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a a couple of links to help you understand a little better. Very simple to use and very cheap. Auto Body filler is what it is. Drilling from the outside in will not allow for any undue force on the plate after its installed. It shouldn't matter but better to use common sense to have it turn to crap on you.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bondo_%28putty%29

http://www.ehow.com/how_2149826_body-filler-auto-body-repair.html
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