JBwelding Yes or No

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

So did anyone else not JBweld the cable panel? With the gasket and a 6 coats of paint I think it is fairly well sealed.

I elected to move the power to the other side of the box so I would not have to relocate the ground post. This resulted in ditching the alarm light but the buzzer has an LED built in so it seems rather redundant to have both.

Anyway just getting the thoughts of others on this. It's far to late to change it now.

crush · Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway

I was wondering if jbweld is overkill too and if there is an alternative. Perhaps adhesive sillicone sealant would do? I don't look forward to grinding down the screws, and perhaps silicone sealant is strong enough to hold the panel in place and create a water tight seal.

coffeediver · Joined: 18 Dec 2010 Posts: 174 Location: Kiowa CO.

I went ahead with the JB Weld, turns out my heat sink hits right about on the seems and raised screw heads would have interfered with the heat sink sitting flush. The grinding of the screws was actually very easy. I have a flexible sanding grinding wheel which helps and only took a few minutes to get all of them. Just be careful not to go too deep into the boxes finish, Although if mounted high enough this part won't be seen.

Coffeediver

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

I guess the screws aren't an issue if you use the smaller sinks.

Castermmt · Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 5:50 pm Post subject:

I used the JB weld to seal the plate without the foam seal and then used Bondo brand body & fender filler to level it off. I did leave the two screws in but feel I could have removed them without any concerns of it ever coming apart.

Sparky · Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 8:28 pm Post subject:

crush · Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway

What do you guys think, do we really need the screws to hold the plate in place? or can we do without them if using a good epoxy?

Castermmt · Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 12:47 am Post subject:

I don't think you need them as long as you sand the contact areas first to give it some teeth for your epoxy to adhere to,If you don't, you may have the base paint come loose not the epoxy. I also recommend the Bondo body filler on top to smooth it off. Make sure you do all your drilling and cutting from the out side as well. Castermmt

crush · Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway

Thanks castermnt, useful info for a metalwork noob like me! I don't have bondo over here, is that a kind of caulk?

Drilling from the outside in, is that to keep the outside surface as flat and burr free as possible?

Sparky · Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 10:04 pm Post subject:

Castermmt · Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 10:07 pm Post subject:

Here is a a couple of links to help you understand a little better. Very simple to use and very cheap. Auto Body filler is what it is. Drilling from the outside in will not allow for any undue force on the plate after its installed. It shouldn't matter but better to use common sense to have it turn to crap on you.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bondo_%28putty%29

http://www.ehow.com/how_2149826_body-filler-auto-body-repair.html