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happysacbrewing
Joined: 20 Jan 2011 Posts: 34 Location: Edgewater, MD
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Link Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 12:38 am Post subject: Interlock wiring question |
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I am including two switches in my panel that switch 12V DC circuits. If possible I would like to include them in the interlock so that they have to be in the off position before the power comes on. I know that 120V AC runs through all the NC blocks on the switches to the interlock. Is it a problem to have 120 AC running through the NC block on the switch and 12VDC running through the NO block on the same switch? I think it isn't a problem, I just want to be sure. Thanks.
Dan
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milldoggy
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA
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Link Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 1:11 pm Post subject: |
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Might I asked what the 12 v dc are running?
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milldoggy
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA
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Link Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 1:12 pm Post subject: |
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Might I asked what the 12 v dc are running?
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milldoggy
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA
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Link Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 1:13 pm Post subject: |
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Might I asked what the 12 v dc are running?
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milldoggy
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA
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Link Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 1:14 pm Post subject: |
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Edit: android phone triple posted
Last edited by milldoggy on Sat Feb 12, 2011 3:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
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happysacbrewing
Joined: 20 Jan 2011 Posts: 34 Location: Edgewater, MD
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Link Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 2:54 pm Post subject: |
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Sure.
The first one is an HLT fill circuit described in this thread http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24669
The second one is is a circuit that controls a valve that opens or closes the cooling water to the plate chiller. Same circuit design as the HLT fill circuit except there is no need for a float switch on that circuit. I am also adding a PID and additional RTD probe to monitor the temp on the outlet side of the wort chiller. It will be wired the same as the PID and temp probe on the BK, but that is not part of the DC control circuit for the valve.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11123 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 3:01 pm Post subject: |
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Shouldn't be a problem as long as you keep the two completely isolated and the contact blocks are rated for whatever voltage/current you're using.
Kal
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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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happysacbrewing
Joined: 20 Jan 2011 Posts: 34 Location: Edgewater, MD
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Link Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 4:19 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Kal. That is exactly what I was hoping. I am using the same switches you use with the contact blocks that are rated to 400V and 10A, so that won't be a problem. Even though the contact blocks are physically next to each other on the back of the actuator, they appear to me to be completely isolated from each other electrically, so I shouldn't have to do anything else to keep them isolated, right? Thanks again.
Dan
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11123 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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longarmbrewing
Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA
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Link Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:25 pm Post subject: .. |
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Not to thread jack here but will the new plastic switches work for this project? It seems that the ebay seller no longer carried the switch style Kal used so there is no place to plug in the NC contact blocks.
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milldoggy
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA
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Link Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:33 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, you need to get a NC/NC block for the back of the element switch. The yellow blocks are typically NO/NC, so you are all set for the interlock except the element switch.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11123 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:46 pm Post subject: |
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Good question.
Definitely works... I just tried it! I took two contact blocks off one switch and stuck'em on another:
(How's that for service!)
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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milldoggy
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA
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Link Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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I used all these in my build. They work, but my one pump switch sticks though. Seems to be an issue with switch not the block.
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milldoggy
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA
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Link Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:50 pm Post subject: |
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Funny, you can your post in the screen shot, seems like you edited it
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longarmbrewing
Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA
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Link Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:53 pm Post subject: .. |
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Thanks guys. I will have to take a look when I get back from vacation so I can wrap my head around the new format.
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longarmbrewing
Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 3:54 am Post subject: |
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Ok so I have this correct. 14 gauge hot no longer goes from 3 on the NO to the right side of the "Power in Relay" but it goes into pin 8 on the interlock and then out from 3 on the interlock to the relay?
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pola0502ds
Joined: 14 Mar 2011 Posts: 290 Location: poland, Ohio
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 10:55 am Post subject: |
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kal wrote: | Good question.
Definitely works... I just tried it! I took two contact blocks off one switch and stuck'em on another:
(How's that for service!)
Kal |
Kal,
The switches in your picture apear to be the same type of switches I used. I know the ones in your control panel are different and I have been having a hard time finding extra contact blocks that match up with those switches. Do you know if they sell them? The switches were cheap enough I could just buy more and steal them from them.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11123 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 1:23 pm Post subject: |
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longarmbrewing wrote: | Ok so I have this correct. 14 gauge hot no longer goes from 3 on the NO to the right side of the "Power in Relay" but it goes into pin 8 on the interlock and then out from 3 on the interlock to the relay? |
Sorry, I don't really follow what you're asking exactly so I'd rather not say "yes" or "no". I documented exactly what to do here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-safe-start-interlock?page=4
So whatever I said to do there is what you need to do.
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11123 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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pola0502ds
Joined: 14 Mar 2011 Posts: 290 Location: poland, Ohio
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