Interlock wiring question

happysacbrewing · Joined: 20 Jan 2011 Posts: 34 Location: Edgewater, MD

I am including two switches in my panel that switch 12V DC circuits. If possible I would like to include them in the interlock so that they have to be in the off position before the power comes on. I know that 120V AC runs through all the NC blocks on the switches to the interlock. Is it a problem to have 120 AC running through the NC block on the switch and 12VDC running through the NO block on the same switch? I think it isn't a problem, I just want to be sure. Thanks.

Dan

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

Might I asked what the 12 v dc are running?

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

Might I asked what the 12 v dc are running?

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

Might I asked what the 12 v dc are running?

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

Edit: android phone triple posted

happysacbrewing · Joined: 20 Jan 2011 Posts: 34 Location: Edgewater, MD

Sure.

The first one is an HLT fill circuit described in this thread http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24669

The second one is is a circuit that controls a valve that opens or closes the cooling water to the plate chiller. Same circuit design as the HLT fill circuit except there is no need for a float switch on that circuit. I am also adding a PID and additional RTD probe to monitor the temp on the outlet side of the wort chiller. It will be wired the same as the PID and temp probe on the BK, but that is not part of the DC control circuit for the valve.

**kal** · Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 3:01 pm Post subject:

Shouldn't be a problem as long as you keep the two completely isolated and the contact blocks are rated for whatever voltage/current you're using.

Kal

happysacbrewing · Joined: 20 Jan 2011 Posts: 34 Location: Edgewater, MD

Thanks Kal. That is exactly what I was hoping. I am using the same switches you use with the contact blocks that are rated to 400V and 10A, so that won't be a problem. Even though the contact blocks are physically next to each other on the back of the actuator, they appear to me to be completely isolated from each other electrically, so I shouldn't have to do anything else to keep them isolated, right? Thanks again.

Dan

**kal** · Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 4:30 pm Post subject:

Correct. They are 100% independant switches.

Kal

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

Not to thread jack here but will the new plastic switches work for this project? It seems that the ebay seller no longer carried the switch style Kal used so there is no place to plug in the NC contact blocks.

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

Yes, you need to get a NC/NC block for the back of the element switch. The yellow blocks are typically NO/NC, so you are all set for the interlock except the element switch.

**kal** · Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:46 pm Post subject:

Good question.

Definitely works... I just tried it! I took two contact blocks off one switch and stuck'em on another:

(How's that for service!) Smile

Kal

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

I used all these in my build. They work, but my one pump switch sticks though. Seems to be an issue with switch not the block.

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

Funny, you can your post in the screen shot, seems like you edited it Smile

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

Thanks guys. I will have to take a look when I get back from vacation so I can wrap my head around the new format.

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

Ok so I have this correct. 14 gauge hot no longer goes from 3 on the NO to the right side of the "Power in Relay" but it goes into pin 8 on the interlock and then out from 3 on the interlock to the relay?

pola0502ds · Joined: 14 Mar 2011 Posts: 290 Location: poland, Ohio

**kal** · Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 1:23 pm Post subject:

**kal** · Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 1:24 pm Post subject:

pola0502ds · Joined: 14 Mar 2011 Posts: 290 Location: poland, Ohio

This may be helpful to some, my system is all 120v so the switchhes I purchasred are linked below;

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574906687&toolid=10001&campid=5336652980&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D390203943186%26ssPageName%3DSTRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

(Link updated to support our site - Kal)

They are labeled as: PBC-SS22PMA-2 2 POSITION MAINTAINED SELECTOR SWITCH

I contacted Electrical parts after kal provided that link to confirm they do sell them and asked for links to all 3 contact blocks that will work for this specific switch and if you go to ebay and search for the part number listed below, you will find what you need. Either 2 NO ,2 NC, and 1 NC 1NO are listed. Even though all 3 are not needed I listed them just incase someone needs a replacement.

2 NO - 400121904647
1 NO 1 NC - 130397253515
2 NC - 400126094461

Hope this may be useful.