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My Control Box

 
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coffeediver




Joined: 18 Dec 2010
Posts: 174
Location: Kiowa CO.


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 2:06 am    Post subject: My Control Box Reply with quote


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I finished Control Panel (Part 1) today. Have been working on it for a while but as of today the paint is done and all components are installed. Funny how much it looks like Kal's. Will start on (Part 2) tomorrow. Sorry about no pics. I don't have a good camera.

Barry

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crush




Joined: 28 Dec 2010
Posts: 706
Location: Telemark, Norway


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm envious. I'm still playing the waiting game! All the parts are ordered, just being shipped to Europe which will take a couple of weeks.

Were there any difficulties or unexpected surprises? I'm not really looking forward to the metalwork. I'm a computer guy, and computers are quite forgiving when you make a mistake, but there's no CTRL+Z (Undo) with metalwork...

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rosenjm




Joined: 21 Dec 2010
Posts: 249
Location: Ballston Spa, NY


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just finished all the cutting, drilling and grinding on my enclosure. It is down stairs waiting on a fresh coat of primer to dry. The metal work is all pretty straight forward. If you don't have a drill press, consider getting one. I don't think I could have done everything as quickly and neatly without one. Make sure your bit/blades are good quality and sharp and use plenty of cutting oil. Go slow! Especially cutting out the square holes for the PID and meters, etc. Remember, the cuts don't have to be perfect. The components will cover up any minor FUBARS, so will paint for that matter. Kal refers to filing the edges clean and filing off the screw heads where you re-locate the door's grounding post and for the removal panel on the top of the enclosure. I'm not sure what kind of file he was using, or how long it took, but I used a pneumatic die grinder and a grinding wheel to get everything smooth. If you have one at your disposal, I would recommend it. That way, you can make your cuts, just inside your lines, and grind right to the line.

Measure twice and cut once...maybe measure three times! Smile


Last edited by rosenjm on Sun Jan 16, 2011 6:42 pm; edited 1 time in total
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crush




Joined: 28 Dec 2010
Posts: 706
Location: Telemark, Norway


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips! I have a drill press on the way, but will just be using a manual file (or a dremmel) to file down.

I've got quite poor eyesight, so make that measure 4 times! Very Happy

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rosenjm




Joined: 21 Dec 2010
Posts: 249
Location: Ballston Spa, NY


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A dremmel should work well, just make sure you get a grinding wheel for heavy gage metal and a good pair of safety glasses!
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coffeediver




Joined: 18 Dec 2010
Posts: 174
Location: Kiowa CO.


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 7:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal does have a change posted

Use a GreenLee 1/2" conduit punch to punch out the 22mm diameter hole. (A 1/2" conduit punch actually makes a 7/8" or 22mm hole). This is the recommended method (especially if you do not have a drill press) as it results in a clean and perfectly centered hole with the least amount of work. Refer to Step 4: Punch a hole in the kettle from the Heating Elements section for instructions on how to properly create clean holes using a punch like this.

This would have made thing a bit easier. I did not have any issues with the step bit for 22mm holes except that my drill press is not large enough to get the entire door panel under to cut the center most holes.

Also when I cut the holes for the amp and volt meter, the amp meter had a different connector so I had to make the hole just a bet bigger to fit it through, but after it was in it was a little large. So be a little careful. Cut to dimensions and then fit carefully.

On the receptacle holes, make sure you have good quality bi-metal hole saws. I had a combo of wood and metal bits and some cut fin and one of the 44mm holes got funky cause the bit was for wood.

Also be sure go make sure the receptacle holes are not too far back. My main power receptacle is interfered with by the bottom right orange panel post, so it had to be left off.

Barry

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Stuttgarter




Joined: 20 Dec 2010
Posts: 53
Location: Stuttgart, Germany


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm jealous as I'm waiting for the slow boat to Europe to get my stuff. I hear guys anxious after 1-2 days, but I must wait at least a month or more and pay 19% sales tax to get my stuff only to find out they sent the wrong part. I send it back and wait another month and pay more taxes. I salivate at your postings as I am way behind on my build. You guys have it good! I want to see pictures of your control panel.
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rosenjm




Joined: 21 Dec 2010
Posts: 249
Location: Ballston Spa, NY


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is what I have so far. The paint is drying now, I'll post some pictures one everything is installed.


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